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刚刚 一位浙江女二代接班

杨继云 2026-05-22 09:33
杨继云 2026/05/22 09:33

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本文核心信息是雅戈尔创始人李如成退休,创始人独女李寒穷正式接掌这家市值350亿的服装巨头,同时反映出当前国内家族企业正迎来集中接班潮。

1. 李寒穷成长路径清晰:海外名校留学归来后从雅戈尔基层做起,逐步进入核心管理层,主导多笔国际品牌收购,推动雅戈尔去多元化、退出房地产业务,重新聚焦时尚主业,拓展了女装、童装品类。

2. 当前雅戈尔现状与接班背景:雅戈尔现在时尚主业利润暴跌,2025年时尚板块归母净利润仅9593万元,同比降77.75%,投资业务成为利润支柱。根据行业调查数据,仅30%的中国家族企业能成功传到第二代,传承难度很高,李寒穷接掌后的发展仍待观察。

本次雅戈尔代际交接与转型实践,给传统服装品牌升级提供了参考,也能看出当前时尚行业的消费新趋势。

1. 战略转型方向:李寒穷主导雅戈尔去多元化,退出经营三十余年的房地产业务,重新聚焦时尚主业,打破单一男装格局,拓展女装、童装赛道,通过收购国际品牌切入潮牌、高端户外、高端轻奢等热门领域,精准抓住Z世代和高端消费的需求。

2. 渠道布局动作:通过收购美邦核心商圈门店、全盘收购银泰商业,拿下多个一二线城市核心地段的优质线下点位,夯实线下流量基础。

3. 现存挑战警示:雅戈尔目前仍面临品牌老化、新子品牌处于投入期、主业利润暴跌的问题,给同类传统品牌转型提前敲响了警钟。

雅戈尔的转型实践和国内家族企业接班潮,给服装领域卖家带来了明确的机会提示与经验参考。

1. 当前热门增长赛道:高端户外、潮流潮牌、高端童装、高端设计师女装是当前增长明确的赛道,雅戈尔收购的高端户外品牌海丽汉森2024年销售增速达到116%,印证了这类赛道的消费需求旺盛。

2. 可借鉴的扩张路径:对于传统服装卖家来说,可以通过收购成熟国际品牌快速切入新赛道,借助原有品牌的市场影响力打开国内市场,同时要提前抢占核心城市核心商圈的线下点位,获得线下流量优势。

3. 风险提示:新赛道新品牌普遍需要较长投入期,短期很难实现盈利,传统卖家要警惕品牌老化、用户断层的问题,提前布局年轻化调整,同时要关注家族企业交接带来的战略变动,把握合作机会也规避不确定性风险。

雅戈尔李寒穷接班后的战略调整,给国内服装生产工厂带来了新的需求、商业机会与发展启示。

1. 产品生产设计新需求:雅戈尔从单一传统高端男装,拓展到女装、童装、潮牌、高端户外等多个新品类,对不同品类的设计研发、生产工艺、品控标准提出了新要求,有对应设计生产能力的工厂可以获得更多订单合作机会。

2. 企业转型启示:传统服装企业的新一代掌舵人更偏向专业化、全球化运营,推动品牌高端化、多品类升级,工厂需要顺应这个趋势,升级自身的研发设计能力和高端生产能力,适配品牌方的新需求,才能抓住合作机会。

3. 需要应对的挑战:目前雅戈尔时尚主业利润大幅下滑,新板块还处于投入期,品牌方对供应链的成本管控要求会进一步提升,工厂需要提前优化生产流程,做好成本管控,适应品牌方的新要求。

从雅戈尔的代际交接和转型,可以看出国内传统时尚企业转型的行业趋势、客户痛点,也给服务商带来了新的机会。

1. 行业发展大趋势:国内大量传统民营家族企业已经进入集中代际交接期,新上任的二代掌门人大多有国际化、专业化背景,普遍推动企业去多元化、回归主业,开启品牌升级和品类拓展的变革,这是行业的整体趋势。

2. 客户核心痛点:传统老牌服装企业普遍存在品牌老化、用户年龄断层的问题,拓展新品类、收购国际品牌后,缺乏本土化运营、年轻化营销的相关经验,同时线下渠道也需要更新升级,二代掌门人有强烈的变革需求但缺配套能力。

3. 服务商的解决方案方向:可以围绕国际品牌收购整合、新品牌本土化运营、品牌年轻化营销、核心商圈渠道运维这些方向,开发针对性的解决方案,抓住传统企业转型的风口。

雅戈尔转型和国内家族企业接班潮,给各类商业平台带来了新的需求,也指明了平台运营调整的方向。

1. 品牌端的核心需求:正在转型的传统时尚企业,刚接棒的二代掌门人,普遍有拓展新品牌、切入新赛道的需求,十分渴求优质的线下流量点位和运营赋能,雅戈尔收购核心商圈门店、全盘收购银泰商业,就体现了对优质线下点位的强烈需求。

2. 平台招商新机会:大量国际潮牌、高端户外、高端童装品牌通过资本收购进入中国市场,这些新品牌落地需要平台对接资源,平台可以针对性引入这类新兴品牌,优化自身的品牌结构,吸引年轻客群和高端客群,提升平台整体竞争力。

3. 需要规避的风险:新接棒的新品牌大多还处于投入期,短期盈利不确定性高,平台在招商合作时,要充分评估品牌长期发展能力,合理设置合作条款,规避短期运营带来的风险。

本文展现了当前中国家族企业传承和传统实业转型的多个新动向,提供了丰富的新案例和新数据,对相关领域研究有较高参考价值。

1. 产业新动向:国内第一代民营企业创始人已经集中进入退休阶段,在浙江、广东、江苏等民营经济发达地区,已经出现群体性的接班潮,二代接班人的普遍特征是拥有高学历、海外留学背景,接班路径大多是从基层历练逐步接掌权力,和父辈的创业路径有明显区别。

2. 转型新特征:二代接班后普遍推动企业去多元化,重新聚焦主业,依托资本运作收购国际品牌快速完成品类拓展和品牌升级,打造全球化的集团品牌,这和父辈敢闯敢拼、白手起家的发展模式完全不同,是传统企业转型的新路径。

3. 待研究的新问题:数据显示仅30%的家族企业能成功传到第二代,传承成功率极低,本次雅戈尔交接后,依然面临主业利润下滑、品牌老化的问题,其后续发展为家族企业传承和传统企业转型研究提供了新的鲜活案例。

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Quick Summary

This article covers the core news that Li Rucheng, founder of Youngor, has retired, and his only daughter Li Hanqiong has officially taken charge of the 35 billion yuan market cap apparel giant. The handover also reflects that Chinese family businesses are now entering a wave of concentrated generational succession.

1. Li Hanqiong has followed a clear grooming path: After returning from studying at a top overseas university, she started at the grassroots level of Youngor, gradually rose to the core management, led multiple acquisitions of international brands, pushed Youngor to unwind its diversification strategy, exit the real estate business, refocus on its core fashion business, and expanded into women's wear and children's wear categories.

2. Youngor's current situation and succession context: Youngor's core fashion business has suffered a sharp profit decline, with the segment's net profit attributable to shareholders reaching only 95.93 million yuan in 2025, a 77.75% year-on-year drop, leaving investment business as the company's main profit pillar. According to industry survey data, only 30% of Chinese family businesses successfully pass leadership to the second generation, making succession extremely challenging. Li Hanqiong's performance at the helm remains to be seen.

Youngor's generational handover and transformation practices offer a useful reference for traditional apparel brand upgrading, and reveal new consumer trends in the current fashion industry.

1. Strategic transformation direction: Under Li Hanqiong's leadership, Youngor has unwound its diversification, exited the real estate business it operated for over 30 years, refocused on its core fashion business, broken its single men's wear positioning, and expanded into women's wear and children's wear. Through international brand acquisitions, it has entered popular high-growth segments including streetwear, high-end outdoor apparel, and premium accessible luxury, accurately capturing the demand of Gen Z and high-end consumers.

2. Channel layout moves: Through acquiring core commercial district stores from Metersbonwe and taking over the entire equity of Intime Commercial, Youngor has secured high-quality offline locations in core districts of multiple tier-1 and tier-2 cities, consolidating its offline traffic foundation.

3. Warning of existing challenges: Youngor still faces issues including brand aging, new sub-brands still in the investment phase, and plummeting core business profits, which serves as an early warning for similar traditional brands undergoing transformation.

Youngor's transformation practice and the broader wave of family business succession in China offer clear opportunity signals and practical experience references for apparel sellers.

1. Current high-growth segments: High-end outdoor apparel, streetwear, premium children's wear, and high-end designer women's wear are well-recognized high-growth tracks. Helly Hansen, the high-end outdoor brand acquired by Youngor, posted 116% sales growth in 2024, confirming the strong consumer demand in these categories.

2. Replicable expansion paths: For traditional apparel sellers, acquiring mature international brands is a fast way to enter new tracks, leveraging the acquired brand's existing market influence to open up the Chinese market. Sellers should also proactively secure offline locations in core commercial districts of major cities to gain an edge in offline traffic.

3. Risk warnings: New tracks and new brands generally require a long investment period and are rarely profitable in the short term. Traditional sellers should guard against brand aging and user demographic aging, make early adjustments to appeal to younger consumers. They should also pay close attention to strategic shifts brought by family business succession, seize cooperation opportunities while mitigating uncertainty risks.

The strategic adjustments Li Hanqiong has pursued after taking over Youngor bring new demand, business opportunities and development insights for domestic apparel manufacturing factories.

1. New requirements for product design and manufacturing: After expanding from a single traditional high-end men's wear offering to multiple new categories including women's wear, children's wear, streetwear and high-end outdoor apparel, Youngor now has new requirements for design R&D, manufacturing processes and quality control across different categories. Factories with matching design and production capabilities can gain more cooperation and order opportunities.

2. Insights for enterprise transformation: The new generation of leaders at traditional apparel companies favor more professional, globalized operations, and are pushing for brand upgrading and multi-category expansion. Factories need to adapt to this trend by upgrading their R&D capabilities and high-end production capacity to meet brand owners' new requirements, in order to capture cooperation opportunities.

3. Challenges to address: Since Youngor's core fashion business is suffering from sharp profit declines and its new business segments are still in the investment phase, brand owners will tighten cost control requirements for their supply chains. Factories need to optimize production processes and strengthen cost management in advance to adapt to brand owners' updated requirements.

Youngor's generational handover and transformation reveals the broader industry trend of transformation among traditional Chinese fashion enterprises and their core pain points, while bringing new opportunities for service providers.

1. Broad industry development trend: A large number of traditional private family businesses in China have entered a period of concentrated generational succession. Most newly appointed second-generation leaders have international and professional backgrounds, and are generally pushing their companies to unwind diversification, refocus on core business, and launch transformation for brand upgrading and category expansion. This is the overall trend across the industry.

2. Core customer pain points: Traditional established apparel enterprises generally face brand aging and user demographic gaps. After expanding into new categories or acquiring international brands, they lack experience in localized operations and youth-oriented marketing, and also need to upgrade their offline channels. Second-generation leaders have strong demand for transformation but lack the supporting capabilities to deliver it.

3. Directions for service provider solutions: Service providers can develop targeted solutions focused on international brand acquisition integration, new brand localized operation, youth-oriented brand marketing, and core commercial district channel operation and maintenance, to capitalize on the transformation wave of traditional enterprises.

Youngor's transformation and the broader wave of family business succession in China bring new demand for various commercial platforms, and clarify the direction for platform operation adjustment.

1. Core demand from brand owners: Traditional fashion enterprises in transformation, led by newly succeeded second-generation leaders, generally have demand for expanding into new brands and entering new tracks, and are strongly seeking high-quality offline traffic locations and operational enablement. Youngor's acquisition of core commercial district stores and full takeover of Intime Commercial directly reflects this strong demand for quality offline locations.

2. New merchant recruitment opportunities for platforms: A large number of international streetwear, high-end outdoor and premium children's wear brands are entering the Chinese market via capital acquisitions. These new brands need platform support to connect local resources when entering the market. Platforms can specifically onboard these emerging brands to optimize their own brand portfolio, attract younger and high-end consumers, and improve overall platform competitiveness.

3. Risks to avoid: Most newly launched brands under new leadership are still in the investment phase, with high short-term profit uncertainty. When onboarding these brands and negotiating cooperation, platforms should fully evaluate the brands' long-term development potential, set reasonable cooperation terms, and mitigate risks from short-term operational volatility.

This article presents multiple new trends in the succession of Chinese family businesses and the transformation of traditional industrial enterprises, and provides rich new cases and data, offering high reference value for research in related fields.

1. New industrial trends: Founders of the first generation of Chinese private enterprises are now retiring on a mass scale. A concentrated succession wave has already emerged in developed private economy regions including Zhejiang, Guangdong and Jiangsu. Second-generation successors generally hold high degrees and have overseas study experience, and most climb to the top through grassroots experience, which is a clear departure from the founding path of their parents' generation.

2. New transformation characteristics: After taking over, second-generation leaders generally push their firms to unwind diversification, refocus on core business, and complete category expansion and brand upgrading rapidly by acquiring international brands through capital operations to build a global group brand portfolio. This development path is completely different from the first generation's bootstrapped, risk-taking growth model, and represents a new transformation path for traditional enterprises.

3. New questions for future research: Existing data shows only 30% of family businesses successfully pass leadership to the second generation, making the succession success rate extremely low. After the handover, Youngor still faces problems including core business profit decline and brand aging. Its future development will provide a new, living case for research on family business succession and traditional enterprise transformation.

Disclaimer: The "Quick Summary" content is entirely generated by AI. Please exercise discretion when interpreting the information. For issues or corrections, please email run@ebrun.com .

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这一幕终于到来。

今日(5月21日)晚间,雅戈尔时尚股份有限公司年度股东大会结果出炉,选举李寒穷为公司第十二届董事会非独立董事。现任董事长李如成不再参选董事,届满后彻底退出日常经营决策。

这是雅戈尔成立47年来第一次正式且不可逆的代际交接——李寒穷,雅戈尔创始人李如成独女,正式拿到了接班入场券。

早年她赴美留学归来,后进入父亲的公司一步步成长,当中留给创投圈最深刻的印象是主导了一笔笔重磅的品牌收购。如今,75岁的裁缝股神退居幕后,49岁的雅戈尔公主即将执掌这家市值350亿的服装巨头。

01 浙江女二代,全面执掌300亿

雅戈尔的创始人李如成,1951年出生于浙江宁波。他早年经历长期的底层艰辛生活,锻造了隐忍坚韧、敢闯敢拼的性格,也埋下了对于“改变命运”的强烈渴望。

1977年,李寒穷出生时,家中正值最困顿艰苦之际。父亲李如成为她取名“寒穷”,寓意“寒冷总会过去,春天会如约到来”——远离寒冷和贫穷,苦尽甘来,父辈对她多有期冀。

在她出生后的第三年,李如成进入宁波石碶公社的青春服装厂,后来做到厂长一职,在工厂濒临倒闭时带领工人破局求生,促成与东北工厂的合作以及与上海“开开牌”衬衫的联营,迅速积累了原始资本。1986年,工厂推出了第一个自有品牌“北仑港”衬衫,订货会上两天2000万出货值,在当时可谓“天文数字”。

雅戈尔品牌则正式诞生于1990年。彼时,青春服装厂与澳门南光贸易公司合资创立“雅戈尔(YOUNGOR)”,随后请来红遍大江南北的费翔做代言人,品牌知名度瞬间引爆,雅戈尔逐渐成为高端男装的代名词。1998年,雅戈尔在上海证券交易所正式上市,成为国内服装行业的标杆企业。

此后,雅戈尔逐渐形成“服装、地产、投资”三驾马车并行的多元化格局,由于投资收益一度远超服装主业,李如成还被外界戏称为“裁缝股神”——雅戈尔曾靠投资中信证券、宁波银行赚了近三百亿。

李寒穷接班其实早有预兆。

与大多数企业二代成长路径一致,她本科毕业于美国加州州立大学工商管理专业,之后又在中欧商学院获EMBA学位。学成归来,她没有直接进入雅戈尔管理层,而是从基层做起,积累经验。

直到2011年5月,李寒穷进入雅戈尔担任董事,正式开启在雅戈尔的核心管理层之旅。正当外界目光聚焦于这位二代时,2015年她领衔推出雅戈尔冬奥会特别版衬衫,短时间销售一空,这被看作是营销才能的展现。

此后十余年,李如成一步步放权给女儿。2023年,李寒穷推动公司更名“雅戈尔时尚股份有限公司”,并出任总经理一职。此后主导雅戈尔的“去多元化”,并在2024年彻底退出经营了三十余年的房地产业务,将资金重新聚焦于时尚主业的升级。

也是在李寒穷的主导下,雅戈尔打破多年来只专注于男装的格局,推出女装和童装系列。为此,她还主导了一系列国际品牌的收购与整合,让外界看到一次次大手笔的资本运作。

如今,李寒穷接过了父亲手中的权杖。李如成在致股东信中表示:“长江后浪推前浪,这次董事会换届,将由新的一代人负责雅戈尔的经营。”

02 一位隐秘并购女王

这几年,李寒穷常被看作“并购女王”——在雅戈尔转型这些年,她主导了众多品牌的投资收购。

先是美国潮牌UNDEFEATED。该品牌在2002年创立于洛杉矶,以“五条杠”标识闻名,主打街头潮流、运动休闲、联名球,在潮流圈、球鞋圈有一定影响力。

2021年时,雅戈尔以约4.09亿元收购UNDEFEATED 40%股权,并在香港成立合资控股公司,独家负责大中华区运营与经销,以此快速切入年轻潮牌赛道,补全商务+户外+潮流矩阵,吸引Z世代。2023年起,UNDEFEATED在中国加速拓店,进驻一线商圈与高端商场。

同年完成的战略投资还包括专业户外Helly Hansen(海丽汉森)——1877年创办的挪威国宝级户外品牌,以航海、滑雪、高端户外见长。

2021年4月,雅戈尔以约2.31亿元与海丽汉森成立中国合资公司,独家负责大中华区(含港澳台)运营、生产、销售,抢占高端户外赛道。2024年,品牌销售增速116%,截至目前门店约80家,入驻上海淮海路、北京SKP、成都太古里、西安赛格等。

不仅如此,2022年9月雅戈尔与挑战者创投共同投资了美国高端设计师时尚品牌Alexander Wang,切入高端设计师轻奢女装,强化“中国资本+国际设计师”的全球化时尚集团定位。这之后,雅戈尔集团正式更名雅戈尔时尚。

海外收购步履不停,2025年初雅戈尔与法国高端童装品牌Bonpoint母公司EPI集团完成交易,作价15.3亿元收购Bonpoint相关资产。被称作“贵族童装”,Bonpoint品牌至今有近50年历史,在时尚童装界地位举足轻重。

值得一提的是,她还率队雅戈尔在线下商圈跑马圈地。2023年,李寒穷主导收购美邦服饰多个核心商圈门店,包括贵阳中华中路、武汉光谷世界城等;更重磅的是2024年12月,雅戈尔宣布以74亿元人民币收购银泰商业集团全部100%股权。彼时李寒穷作为雅戈尔方签约代表,全程主导谈判与决策,并在签约仪式现场罕见公开现身。

除服装类,雅戈尔的投资触角也伸向了其他领域,据公开信息,雅戈尔曾投资护肤品牌林清轩、美妆集团上美股份、户外骑行品牌而意等;并作为LP投资了凯辉基金等等。

至此,李寒穷为雅戈尔一步步搭建起全球化时尚版图。

创业难,守业往往更难。扛过父辈大旗的李寒穷面临着不可小觑的挑战,这从财报中就可见一斑。根据雅戈尔2025年财报,主业时尚板块利润太薄,只有不到1个亿——2025年时尚板块归母净利润仅9593万元,同比暴跌77.75%。

子品牌还在投入期,品牌老化年轻人不买账,这些状况实实在在摆在面前。

与此同时,投资业务却成为了雅戈尔的利润支柱——2025年雅戈尔退出4个财务性投资项目,减持收回现金77.14亿元;投资业务全年归母净利润24.71亿元,已超过公司整体归母净利润。

江湖还在等待“并购女王”的新传奇。

03 一代人渐渐老去,接班潮已至

二代接班一幕正密集发生。

中国的第一代创业者在经历几十年的奋斗,无论是企业资产还是家族财富都积累到一定规模,但同时他们也渐渐步入暮年,面临着退休——据波士顿咨询公司报告统计,中国百强家族企业中,超过四分之一的创始人年龄在70岁或以上;仍在企业担任董事长或CEO重要职位的创始人,平均年龄已超过60岁。

如何体面地将企业传承下去,是摆在他们面前无法回避的课题。

从长三角的民营经济重镇到珠三角的制造业集群,从传统实业到新兴赛道,二代接班已从个体案例变成群体现象,尤其是在浙江、广东、江苏等民营经济发达地区,这股浪潮更为汹涌。

正如这几年,我们已经目睹了许多创二代接过掌舵权——新希望投资集团董事长刘畅,正带领新希望乳业冲击港股上市;温州创二代侯亚孟走到珀莱雅舞台中央,完成换帅;90后女二代高海纯成为A股光伏巨头天合光能联席董事长;天齐锂业蒋安琪成为新任董事长;“好想来”90后接班人王泽宁执掌百亿零食帝国……不胜枚举。

越来越多的70后、80后甚至90后二代,正式从父辈手中接过企业的方向盘。

这似乎是一条清晰的路径:他们成长于父辈白手起家之时,海外名校学成归来兜兜转转后,进入家族企业从基层做起。当父辈老去,他们顺势扛起接棒大旗。

与父辈“敢闯敢拼、摸爬滚打”的创业底色不同,这些拥有高学历、海外留学背景或专业领域深耕经验的新一代接班人,更擅长用全球化视野、数字化思维和专业化管理,为传统企业注入新活力。

传统实业的根基碰撞全球化的视野,中国的家族企业正迎来一场全新的变革。

当然,二代接班也绝非简单的新老交替,这是一场攸关企业命运的考验,同时更是一项涉及战略、制度与人心的复杂工程——娃哈哈遗产风波悬而未决;美特斯邦威二代胡佳佳接班后,公司业绩不涨反亏,早已隐退的创始人周成建选择重新出山……或成或败,守好江山并不容易。

波士顿家族企业研究协会的一组调查数据表明,30%的家族企业能够成功传到第二代,10%能够传到第三代,能够传到第四代的仅剩3%。这意味着,成功的传承并非易事,甚至是罕见。

当他们扛起父辈大旗,征途才刚刚开启。

注:文/杨继云,文章来源:投资界(公众号ID:pedaily2012),本文为作者独立观点,不代表亿邦动力立场。

文章来源:投资界

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