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接连关店的植物护肤老牌困在“菌菇水”里

李斌 2026-06-25 16:07
李斌 2026/06/25 16:07

邦小白快读

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本文梳理了雅诗兰黛旗下老牌植物护肤品牌悦木之源从高光走红到陷入增长困境的全过程,核心干货信息如下:

1.核心事件:悦木之源近期接连关闭中国台湾、中国香港的所有线下专柜,仅保留线上渠道运营,该品牌已经连续多个财季出现业绩下滑,是目前雅诗兰黛集团护肤板块中拖累整体销售额的品牌之一。

2.品牌发展脉络:悦木之源1990年创立,是较早押注天然植物护肤赛道的品牌,2010年进入中国市场后,靠明星单品菌菇水配合湿敷场景营销+初代KOL种草,快速成为很多消费者的中高端护肤启蒙产品,一度创下不错的口碑和销量。

3.选购参考:现在植物护肤赛道选择非常丰富,消费者选购护肤品不要只迷信老牌光环,要重点关注产品实际功效、迭代更新速度和性价比,优先选择匹配自身需求的产品。

悦木之源的掉队案例给植物护肤赛道的品牌商提供了非常多值得借鉴的经验教训,核心干货如下:

1.产品研发层面:品牌不能长期依赖大单品吃老本,必须跟上消费需求变化保持稳定的产品迭代节奏。当前消费者已经普遍具备成分认知,更看重成分深度、实际功效,悦木之源核心单品菌菇水售卖二十年仅升级三次,远跟不上竞争对手的迭代速度,直接导致大量用户流失。

2.渠道营销层面:疫情后线下客流持续下滑,品牌必须及时完成线上转型,重视直播电商等新内容渠道的运营,悦木之源因线上转型滞后,用户注意力已经被国货品牌全面抢占。

3.消费趋势层面:当前植物护肤赛道仍然保持增长,但国货品牌已经占据国内过半市场份额,消费者不再唯国际老牌出身论,更看重成分、功效、性价比,品牌需要顺应趋势调整产品、定价和营销策略。

本文分析了当前植物护肤赛道的竞争格局变化,给美妆卖家整理了如下机会、风险相关干货:

1.赛道整体机会:当前全球植物护肤赛道仍然保持扩张态势,2025年全球天然绿色化妆品销售额已经达到480亿美元,年复合增长率达到12%,仍然是成长性不错的赛道,有较多创业和增长空间。

2.消费需求变化:现在消费者不再盲目迷信国际大牌出身,更关注产品成分、实际功效和性价比,本土卖家可以深度挖掘积雪草、金盏花等本土植物成分,打造差异化卖点,更容易获得消费者的认可。

3.风险提示:过去依赖线下渠道、靠单一爆品打天下的模式已经过时,卖家要避开多个常见坑:线上转型滞后、产品迭代速度慢、产品原地踏步还逆势涨价,这些都会导致用户流失,要重视直播电商等新渠道运营,持续更新产品保持品牌竞争力。

本文分析了植物护肤赛道的最新变化,给美妆工厂带来了产品研发、商业机会和数字化转型方面的如下启示:

1.产品生产设计需求变化:当前下游品牌和终端消费者都要求产品快速迭代,对功效的精细化要求越来越高,工厂需要提升自身研发能力,适配品牌快速迭代产品的需求,完善成分溯源、功效验证相关的配套能力,满足品牌和市场的新要求。

2.商业机会:目前国货植物护肤品牌已经占据国内纯净护肤领域54%的市场份额,实现了对国际品牌的反超,多数国货品牌保持每年更新产品的节奏,有大量的研发生产需求,工厂可以针对性开发本土植物成分相关的生产研发方案,对接国货品牌的需求,获得更多增长空间。

3.电商和数字化启示:当前品牌销售核心场景已经转到线上,需要快速试错快速迭代,工厂需要推进数字化转型,缩短新品开发周期,更好匹配品牌线上运营的节奏。

本文梳理了植物护肤赛道的最新发展情况,给美妆相关服务商带来了如下行业干货:

1.行业发展趋势:植物护肤赛道整体仍然保持12%的年复合增长率,规模持续扩张,但是竞争格局已经发生根本变化,国货品牌取代国际老牌成为市场主力,同时大量传统国际老牌植物护肤品牌陷入增长瓶颈,有较强的转型服务需求,新兴国货品牌增长快,也需要多方面的服务支持。

2.核心客户痛点:传统国际老牌植物护肤品牌普遍存在产品迭代慢、线上运营能力弱、过度依赖单一爆品、品牌声量持续下滑的痛点,很多品牌背靠的集团正在推进战略收缩,有明确的线上转型需求;新兴国货品牌则需要成分研发、功效验证、品牌营销、直播运营等多方面的服务支持,帮助其抢占更多市场份额。

3.业务方向参考:服务商可以针对性推出两类业务,一是给传统老牌提供线上转型全案服务,帮助其重构线上内容运营,优化直播转化;二是给国货品牌提供本土成分挖掘、功效验证、品牌营销等服务,匹配市场需求。

本文分析了植物护肤赛道的品牌竞争变化,给美妆电商平台带来了如下运营、招商相关的干货参考:

1.品牌需求变化:原本依赖线下渠道的老牌护肤品牌,现在纷纷收缩线下阵地退守线上,对平台的线上运营支持、流量扶持的需求大幅提升;而成长快速的新兴国货植物护肤品牌,需要平台提供更多流量、营销活动支持来扩大品牌声量,拉动销售增长。

2.平台招商方向:当前植物护肤赛道国货品牌增长势头强劲,已经占据国内过半市场份额,而且这类品牌普遍更重视线上运营,在直播运营、用户互动方面能力更强,能给平台带来更多销售额,平台可以加大对优质国货植物护肤品牌的招商倾斜。

3.运营和风险规避:平台要留意品牌的增长潜力,过度依赖单一爆品、产品长期不迭代的品牌,后续增长乏力,会影响平台品类的整体销售额,平台可以通过运营引导品牌加快产品更新,丰富品牌自身的产品矩阵,降低品牌和平台的共同增长风险。

本文通过悦木之源掉队的案例,揭示了当前全球美妆产业的多个新动向、新问题,对产业研究有较高的参考价值,核心干货如下:

1.产业新动向:植物护肤赛道仍然保持快速增长,2025年全球天然绿色化妆品规模已经达到480亿美元,年复合增长率为12%,国内市场中,国货植物护肤品牌的市场份额已经达到54%,首次实现对国际品牌的反超,市场竞争格局已经发生根本性改变,过去靠一两个大单品、线下专柜就能稳定增长的模式已经彻底被淘汰。

2.产业新问题:头部国际美妆集团近年来普遍存在产品更新频率低、运营风格保守固化的问题,业绩下滑后多采取战略收缩策略,将资源向高端核心品牌倾斜,导致旗下不少定位中端、增长乏力的老牌护肤品牌被边缘化,发展陷入恶性循环。

3.商业模式研究参考:传统国际品牌靠大集团背书、单一爆品、线下渠道的商业模式已经不再适配当前市场,新的主流商业模式更强调快速产品迭代、线上内容场运营、高性价比,本土品牌依靠这套新商业模式已经实现对国际老牌的超越,是非常值得深入研究的产业样本。

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Quick Summary

This article traces the full trajectory of Origins, a long-standing plant-based skincare brand owned by Estée Lauder, from its peak popularity to its current growth struggles, with key takeaways as follows:

1. Core update: Origins has recently closed all of its offline counters in Taiwan (China) and Hong Kong (China), retaining only online operations. The brand has posted declining sales for multiple consecutive quarters, and is one of the drags on overall revenue within Estée Lauder Group’s skincare division.

2. Brand history: Founded in 1990, Origins was one of the first brands to bet on the natural plant-based skincare track. After entering the Chinese mainland market in 2010, its star product Dr. Andrew Weil Mega-Mushroom Relief & Resilience Soothing Treatment Lotion, paired with marketing centered on the compress application scenario and early KOL seeding, quickly became an entry-level product for many consumers into mid-to-premium skincare, earning strong word-of-mouth and solid sales at its peak.

3. Purchasing guidance: With abundant options available in today’s plant-based skincare market, consumers should not rely solely on the reputation of long-established brands. They should prioritize actual product efficacy, update frequency and cost-performance, and select products that best match their individual needs.

Origins’ decline offers valuable lessons for brands operating in the plant-based skincare space, with key insights as follows:

1. Product R&D: Brands cannot rely on legacy star products indefinitely; they must maintain a steady product iteration pace to keep up with shifting consumer demands. Today’s consumers generally have high awareness of skincare ingredients and prioritize ingredient depth and tangible efficacy. Origins’ core mushroom toner has only been updated three times in 20 years of sales, far slower than the iteration pace of competitors, which directly led to massive user churn.

2. Channel and marketing: Offline foot traffic has continued to decline post-pandemic, so brands must complete online transformation in a timely manner and prioritize operations on new content channels such as live-streaming e-commerce. Origins’ delayed online transformation allowed domestic Chinese brands to fully capture user attention from the brand.

3. Consumer trends: The plant-based skincare track is still growing, but domestic Chinese brands now hold over half of the domestic market share. Consumers no longer automatically favor long-established international brands, and instead prioritize ingredients, efficacy, and cost-performance. Brands must adjust their products, pricing, and marketing strategies to align with this new trend.

This article analyzes shifts in the competitive landscape of the plant-based skincare market, and summarizes key insights on opportunities and risks for beauty sellers:

1. Overall track opportunity: The global plant-based skincare market is still expanding. Global sales of natural green cosmetics are projected to reach $48 billion by 2025, with a 12% compound annual growth rate, making it a high-growth track with ample room for entrepreneurship and expansion.

2. Shifting consumer demand: Consumers no longer blindly favor international big names, and instead pay more attention to ingredients, actual efficacy, and cost-performance. Local sellers can tap into local plant ingredients such as centella asiatica and calendula to build differentiated selling points, which makes it easier to win consumer recognition.

3. Risk warnings: The old playbook of relying on offline channels and a single hit product is obsolete. Sellers should avoid common pitfalls including delayed online transformation, slow product iteration, and price hikes while leaving products unchanged—all of which cause user churn. Sellers should prioritize operations on new channels such as live-streaming e-commerce, and continuously update products to maintain brand competitiveness.

This article analyzes the latest shifts in the plant-based skincare track, and shares insights on product R&D, business opportunities, and digital transformation for beauty manufacturers:

1. Shifting product design and production demands: Downstream brands and end consumers now demand faster product iteration and increasingly refined efficacy requirements. Manufacturers need to upgrade their R&D capabilities to meet brands’ demands for fast iteration, and improve supporting capabilities including ingredient traceability and efficacy verification to meet the new requirements of brands and the market.

2. Business opportunities: Domestic Chinese plant-based skincare brands now hold 54% of the domestic clean skincare market share, overtaking international brands. Most domestic brands update their products on an annual basis, creating strong demand for R&D and production. Manufacturers can develop targeted R&D and production solutions focused on local plant ingredients to meet the needs of domestic brands and unlock more growth.

3. Insights on e-commerce and digitalization: The core sales scenario for brands has shifted online, requiring fast trial-and-error and iteration. Manufacturers need to advance digital transformation to shorten new product development cycles, and better align with the pace of brands’ online operations.

This article summarizes the latest developments in the plant-based skincare track, and shares key industry insights for beauty-related service providers:

1. Industry trends: The plant-based skincare track maintains a 12% compound annual growth rate and continues to expand in scale, but its competitive landscape has fundamentally changed: domestic Chinese brands have replaced long-established international brands as the market’s main force. Meanwhile, many traditional long-established international plant-based skincare brands are stuck in growth bottlenecks and have strong demand for transformation services, while fast-growing emerging domestic brands also need multi-faceted service support.

2. Core client pain points: Traditional international plant-based brands universally suffer from slow product iteration, weak online operational capabilities, over-reliance on a single hit product, and steadily declining brand awareness. Many of these brands are owned by groups that are currently pursuing strategic contraction, and have clear demand for online transformation. Emerging domestic brands, by contrast, need support across ingredient R&D, efficacy verification, brand marketing, and live-stream operations to help them capture more market share.

3. Recommended business directions: Service providers can develop two targeted business lines: first, end-to-end online transformation services for traditional legacy brands, to help them rebuild online content operations and optimize live-stream conversion; second, services including local ingredient exploration, efficacy verification, and brand marketing for domestic brands, to match current market demand.

This article analyzes competitive shifts in the plant-based skincare track, and shares operational and merchant acquisition insights for beauty e-commerce platforms:

1. Shifting brand demands: Long-established skincare brands that originally relied heavily on offline channels are now shrinking their offline footprint and retreating online, leading to sharply increased demand for online operational support and traffic allocation from platforms. Fast-growing emerging domestic plant-based skincare brands need more traffic and marketing event support from platforms to expand brand awareness and drive sales growth.

2. Merchant acquisition priorities: Domestic plant-based brands are currently seeing strong growth and already hold over half of the domestic market share. These brands generally prioritize online operations and have stronger capabilities in live-stream operations and user engagement, which drives more sales for platforms. Platforms should increase recruitment incentives for high-quality domestic plant-based skincare brands.

3. Operations and risk mitigation: Platforms should prioritize brands with strong growth potential. Brands that over-rely on a single hit product and leave products unchanged for long periods will see weak future growth, dragging down overall category sales for the platform. Platforms can use operational tools to encourage brands to speed up product updates, expand their product portfolios, and reduce shared growth risks for both brands and the platform.

Through the case study of Origins’ decline, this article reveals multiple new trends and issues in the global beauty industry, offering high reference value for industrial research. Key insights are as follows:

1. New industry trends: The plant-based skincare track continues to grow rapidly. The global market for natural green cosmetics is projected to reach $48 billion by 2025, with a 12% compound annual growth rate. In the Chinese market, domestic plant-based skincare brands hold a 54% market share, overtaking international brands for the first time, leading to a fundamental shift in the competitive landscape. The old growth model of relying on one or two star products and offline counters has been completely phased out.

2. New industry problems: Major international beauty groups have generally suffered from low product update frequency and conservative, rigid operations in recent years. After seeing sales decline, they often adopt strategic contraction strategies to shift resources to core high-end brands, leaving many mid-tier, low-growth legacy skincare brands under their umbrella marginalized and trapped in a vicious cycle of stagnation.

3. Reference for business model research: The traditional business model of international brands that relies on group backing, a single hit product, and offline channels no longer fits the current market. The new mainstream business model emphasizes fast product iteration, online content operation, and high cost-performance. Local Chinese brands have overtaken international legacy brands using this new model, making it a valuable industry sample for in-depth research.

Disclaimer: The "Quick Summary" content is entirely generated by AI. Please exercise discretion when interpreting the information. For issues or corrections, please email run@ebrun.com .

I am a Brand Seller Factory Service Provider Marketplace Seller Researcher Read it again.

继5月底全面撤出中国台湾百货专柜后,雅诗兰黛旗下天然植物护肤品牌Origins悦木之源再传关店消息。据悉,6月30日,品牌将关闭中国香港最后两处实体专柜,仅保留线上渠道运营。

这并非一次简单的渠道调整。曾以菌菇水风靡亚洲的悦木之源,曾是无数年轻消费者踏入中高端护肤大门的第一把钥匙。如今,却在一个月内接连撤出两个重要市场的线下阵地。

关店背后,是品牌长达数年的增长乏力与市场边缘化。在雅诗兰黛集团最新财报中,悦木之源成为护肤板块表现拖累销售额的品牌之一。

与此同时,全球植物护肤赛道仍在增长,国货品牌与国际对手却已悄然改写了竞争规则。一个先行者,为何成了掉队者?当线下渠道收缩、线上转型未明,悦木之源的中年危机还有解吗?

1

含着金汤匙出生,却困在“菌菇水”里

背靠雅诗兰黛集团出生,悦木之源含着金汤匙落地,起点已经赢过了大多数“同龄人”。

1990年,雅诗兰黛夫人的长孙威廉·兰黛在纽约创立Origins,中文名“悦木之源”,定位天然为本、科学为证的高效植物护肤。放在三十多年前,当市场还在被化学合成成分主导时,它打出了“天然萃取、零动物实验、极致环保”三张牌。这个理念颇为超前。

早期的悦木之源,舍得下慢功夫。

1990年,悦木之源推出的活性炭毛孔净透面膜(泥娃娃)是当时护肤界的创举;1997年的复合矿物维他命夜间修护霜一上市便风靡;2005年携手医学权威韦博士(Andrew Weil?),首次将医学理念融入护肤。

回溯早期发展史,悦木之源的每款新品都有成分支撑与专业背书,在那个成分党概念尚未兴起的年代,它早已提前押注这一赛道。

渠道也没落下。在雅诗兰黛集团的强力托举下,悦木之源在创立后迅速开启国际化扩张。

在2010年,悦木之源进入中国香港,凭借灵芝焕能系列——包括被中国消费者昵称为“菌菇水”的明星单品,以及泥娃娃面膜,迅速积累了第一波粉丝。四年后入驻天猫。

公开资料显示,菌菇水所添加的灵芝精粹中的β葡聚糖、灵芝酸负责褪红抗氧,搭配白桦茸舒缓、甘草酸二钾修护、植物透明质酸保湿,多效合一,主打舒缓修复,被年轻消费者推上烂脸救星的神坛,成为无数人的护肤启蒙。

社交媒体尚未普及的年代,悦木之源就用两步锁定用户口碑:

一是锁定湿敷场景,用户分享“湿敷5-10分钟退红如一键消除”的即时体验,令产品效果一目了然;二是早期KOL推荐,@老爸评测等初代测评账号把菌菇水列为常用推荐对象,相关测评文章在博客、BBS上不断扩散。

那是悦木之源的高光时刻,不用铺天盖地的营销,仅靠几款爆品就撑起品牌认知度。时至今日,天猫旗舰店上菌菇水销量4万+,而排在第二的白胖子洁面慕斯只有1万+,其余产品不足1万。

雅诗兰黛2026财年第三季度财报(截至2026年3月31日)显示,悦木之源业绩下滑。悦木之源业绩下滑并非首次出现在雅诗兰黛财报中,2023财年第一季度、2024财年第二季度等,均有相关记录。

三十年过去,这个当年含着金汤匙出生的品牌,如今被自己的大单品牢牢困住。菌菇水还是那瓶菌菇水,但消费者和赛道,早已不是三十年前的样子了。

2

植物护肤赛道依然热闹,主角早已换了一批

悦木之源的落寞,并非植物护肤市场不景气,恰恰相反,这个赛道仍在扩张。2025年,全球天然绿色化妆品销售额达480亿美元,年复合增长率12%。

问题在于,格局变了。

天猫美妆《2023纯净美妆趋势报告》显示,截至2023年,国货品牌在纯净护肤领域的市场份额已达54%,首次实现对国际品牌的反超。

广度上,薇诺娜、百雀羚、孔凤春们广泛挖掘积雪草、金盏花、马齿苋、云南重楼等本土植物成分,形成差异化卖点;高度上,Fresh、Aesop等国际对手则以更强的品牌故事和溢价能力,牢牢卡位高端。

而在成分深度上,悦木之源同样不占优势。

以溪木源为例,同样主打真菌原料,却从成分溯源到功效验证层层递进。2021年发布第一代层孔菌产品,保持每年一更的节奏,至今已迭代至第五代。

今年5月发布的第五代层孔菌智控系列,宣称实现无酸智能分区控油2.0的技术跨越。价格上对比更直观,溪木源层孔菌精华水120ml到手价92.66元,单克重价格仅为悦木之源菌菇水(200ml/335元)的一半。

反观悦木之源,更新节奏慢得“令人着急”。菌菇水卖了二十年,仅升级过三次配方,目前在售的第四代还是2022年推出的,至今已过去四年。

消费者李然(化名)曾是菌菇水的忠实用户,如今已不再复购:“大学时觉得菌菇水很神奇,湿敷能退红。用了几年后,效果越来越不明显。后来换了其他牌子。”

这种贵而无感的认知,正在年轻人中蔓延。

社交平台上,有用户表示“以前很好用,消炎作用强,现在不好用了,长痘痘湿敷效果比以前差太多了”;也有用户直言:“当初买是因为宣称可改善闭口痘痘,但实际用起来没什么效果,只能当普通保湿水,那我还不如选性价比更高的。”

如今,植物护肤的消费者早已不再唯品牌出身论,而是更看重成分、功效、使用感和性价比。在成分党全面崛起的今天,悦木之源以不变应万变的策略,显得格格不入。

更严峻的是线上运营的滞后。

沿袭雅诗兰黛集团的运营基因,悦木之源过去依赖线下专柜和免税渠道。然而,疫情后线下客流下滑,品牌的线上转型却迟迟未能破局。

有米有数数据显示,悦木之源天猫旗舰店粉丝仅40.2万,不足溪木源(291万)的五分之一。近七天虽每日直播,场均观看仅0.8万人次,而溪木源为3.5万人次。

这种差距在销售转化上体现得更直接。近七天,悦木之源菌菇水直播销售额约为5000-7550元,而溪木源仅层孔菌喷雾单品就达到2.5-5万元,已是前者的五倍;若加上包含层孔菌喷雾的护肤套装,溪木源的直播销售额则达到12-30万元。

当品牌在线上内容场失声,消费者注意力早已被国货品牌抢走。悦木之源在直播电商这一关键渠道上,从人气到成交均被远远甩在身后。

据南方都市报报道,2022年雅诗兰黛发起了包括悦木之源在内的产品涨价。一边是产品端原地踏步,一边是逆势涨价,品牌的失速感越发严重。

一个先行者,既守不住线下,又攻不动线上,它在赛道的存在感还剩多少?

3

退守线上之后,是新起点还是边缘化?

悦木之源的落寞,与雅诗兰黛集团自身的困境脱不开干系。

过去几年,雅诗兰黛集团产品更新频率低、运营风格固化,与国际竞争对手相比显得保守。这种保守直接反映在业绩上:雅诗兰黛销售额从2022财年的177亿美元跌至2024财年的143亿美元,归母净利润从盈利24亿美元转为亏损11亿美元。

2025年1月,司泰峰接替傅懿德,成为雅诗兰黛集团第六任总裁兼CEO。

新官上任,司泰峰提出“Beauty Reimagined(重塑美妆新境)”战略,同时宣布在2026年底前大规模裁员,裁员上限已上调至10000人,占全球员工总数的17.5%。其中,超过70%的减员集中在百货公司及独立门店的美容顾问。

在这个节骨眼上,悦木之源撤出港澳线下专柜,并不意外,它只是集团瘦身计划中一个顺理成章的结果。

更值得关注的是集团对旗下品牌的“断舍离”。

据多家媒体报道,雅诗兰黛正寻求将Too Faced、Smashbox及Dr.Jart+打包出售,估值仅在数亿美元区间。而当年收购这三个品牌的花费超过25亿美元,如今可能以大幅折让价格割爱。

与此同时,集团宣布收购印度阿育吠陀美容品牌Forest Essentials剩余51%股份。双方合作始于2008年,雅诗兰黛先是以少数股权投资试水,2020年将持股比例提升至49%,如今决定全盘纳入。

一买一卖之间,信号清晰:减掉那些市场竞争优势偏弱的队伍,用有限的资源保护核心品牌。

问题随之而来,当集团收购同样是植物护肤定位的Forest Essentials,悦木之源还能拿到多少预算和耐心?

从资源配置来看,雅诗兰黛集团的优势和重心明显锚定在高端与奢华品牌上。

2026年4月,雅诗兰黛集团CEO司泰峰在接受36氪专访时表示:“我们的品牌组合主要在高端和奢华区间,这仍然是我们的优势所在。”这意味着集团的研发、营销、渠道资源可能会自然地向海蓝之谜、雅诗兰黛主品牌等高毛利资产倾斜。

而悦木之源这样一个产品迭代缓慢、销售额下滑的中端品牌,在集团以高端为锚的资源配置逻辑下,优先级注定不高。

转向线上究竟是战略转型的新起点,还是被悄然边缘化的前奏?答案取决于集团是否愿意为其投入资源重新打造产品线和用户运营体系。

但就目前来看,产品结构过度依赖经典单品,社交媒体声量远低于同期品牌,且其在集团内部的战略优先级持续走低,悦木之源的未来,恐怕不只是关店那么简单。

悦木之源的式微,折射出美妆市场竞争格局的深刻变化:靠一两个明星单品、靠线下专柜就能吃遍天下的日子,一去不复返了。植物护肤赛道依然热闹,但主角早已换了一批。

悦木之源的中年危机,或许才刚刚开始。

注:文/李斌,文章来源:创业最前线(公众号ID:chuangyezuiqianxian),本文为作者独立观点,不代表亿邦动力立场。

文章来源:创业最前线

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