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900家店铺清零 曾碾压大牌的白牌“顶流” 彻底崩盘

天下网商 2026-07-20 11:36
天下网商 2026/07/20 11:36

邦小白快读

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总:本文梳理了美妆行业流量红利退去后的大变局,核心干货信息如下

1.核心事件:曾经的白牌顶流肌先知,巅峰时期在内容电商成交额超过雅诗兰黛,开900家店年销8.25亿,短短4年就因暴力投流模式崩塌,母公司负债6.6亿,进入破产清算,资产拍卖流拍,标志着靠烧钱投流的白牌时代正式落幕。

2.实操参考:当前美妆行业规则改变,选美妆时不要盲目相信直播间投流的短期爆款,偏好确定性的当下,选择有长期品牌沉淀、产品研发投入的品牌,踩坑概率更低;同时也有不少靠差异化新定位崛起的新品牌,可以关注细分场景、有独特风格的新品。

总:本文分析了当前美妆行业的新格局与消费趋势,给美妆品牌商的干货如下

1.行业与消费趋势:当前美妆大盘首次出现整体负增长,消费信心波动下消费者更倾向选择有确定性的知名品牌,品牌效应回归;同时消费者也产生了新需求,包括新场景产品、情绪价值、圈层专属产品等新增量空间。

2.品牌运营启示:暴力投流已经不再是品牌护城河,粗放扩张的白牌模式已经失效,品牌要及时换挡,在红利退去前完成从卖货到造牌的转型,精耕产品研发,拓展全渠道,降低对流量算法的依赖。

3.竞争参考:外资大牌已经学会本土流量玩法,靠高毛利率支撑降价促销下探国货价格带,腰部品牌要警惕双重挤压,需要提前打造差异化竞争力,守住自身定价权。

总:本文梳理了美妆行业的最新变化,给美妆卖家的干货信息如下

1.风险提示:靠烧钱暴力投流、粗放扩张的白牌时代已经落幕,短视频平台已经开始将白牌拆分板块精细运营,出台规则重罚违规商家,不再容忍野蛮生长,纯投流模式已经大概率面临失败,卖家需要避开该路径的风险。

2.机会提示:当前美妆行业仍然有多个增量机会,分别是打造差异化,靠独特审美和情绪价值建立竞争力;开拓细分场景,比如美妆配饰化、头皮护理、户外修复等尚未被充分满足的新需求;布局细分圈层,瞄准特定群体打造高情感浓度和高复购。

3.可学习经验:成功的品牌都提前完成转型,从单纯追求流量转向深耕产品和品牌,同时拓展线下全渠道,降低对线上流量的依赖,这个路径值得卖家借鉴。

总:本文以美妆行业变局为案例,给美妆相关工厂带来的干货启示如下

1.产品生产设计需求变化:当前美妆市场已经不再追求海量短周期上新,消费者厌倦了成分内卷,更需要聚焦单品深耕、符合新消费场景的产品,能提供独特审美和情绪价值的产品更有竞争力,聚焦少量优质单品比大量上新更可持续。

2.商业机会:大量白牌正在从投流卖货转型做品牌,拓展线下渠道,对代工的需求从原来短平快的快上新转向长期稳定的高品质产品研发生产,具备研发能力、能做长期稳定合作的工厂会获得更多机会。

3.数字化电商转型启示:工厂转型做自有品牌时,不能复刻过去只砸钱投流的模式,要提前布局产品研发和品牌心智建设,才能在行业波动中存活下来,暴力投流已经无法成为长期生意的底座。

总:本文分析了美妆行业的最新变化,给美妆相关服务商的干货内容如下

1.行业发展趋势:美妆行业流量红利已经褪去,靠付费投流起量的白牌模式已经崩塌,行业从原来的流量驱动转向产品、品牌和差异化价值驱动,整体格局向头部集中,同时也诞生了细分场景、圈层品牌的新增量。

2.客户痛点:当前不同类型美妆客户都存在转型痛点,传统投流白牌急需摆脱对流量的依赖,完成从卖货到做品牌的转型;腰部国货受到外资大牌的双重挤压,急需打造差异化竞争力,这些痛点都是服务商的机会。

3.业务方向调整:服务商不再能单纯靠流量投放获利,品牌现在更需要的是帮助做产品定位、挖掘细分需求、塑造差异化价值、规划全渠道布局的相关服务,这类服务会成为未来服务商的核心增长点。

总:本文透露出美妆行业对平台的新需求,以及行业变化给平台运营的干货启示如下

1.行业变化的启示:早期平台为了追求GMV增长扶持白牌野蛮生长,催生了大量短生命周期低品质的白牌,损害消费者体验,也不利于行业长期发展,规范行业规则已经成为平台的必然方向。

2.平台可参考的最新做法:目前已经有短视频电商平台开始调整,将白牌业务拆分为精品、生活、日用三个独立板块进行精细化运营,同时出台规则重罚违规商家,对野蛮生长的白牌进行收编改造,该做法符合当前行业发展需求。

3.未来运营方向:平台未来需要进一步规范商家规则,推动白牌商家向品牌化转型,同时扶持差异化新兴国货和细分圈层品牌,满足消费者多元化需求,规避行业不稳定风险,打造良性竞争的行业环境。

总:本文呈现了当前中国美妆产业的最新动向与新问题,给产业研究提供的干货内容如下

1.产业最新动向:流量红利退去后,美妆产业格局正在重构,暴力投流的白牌模式彻底崩塌,品牌效应重新回归,国际大牌凭借品牌势能和本土化的流量运营,重新夺回了美妆市场的主动权,国货品牌普遍经历去流量化转型,行业出现明显分化。

2.产业新问题:当前美妆全网大盘首次出现整体负增长,存量竞争加剧,白牌短生命周期、消费者信任度低的问题彻底暴露,大量腰部国货受到外资大牌降维打击,生存空间被持续挤压,如何突围成为产业需要解决的新问题。

3.新商业模式探索:一批成功转型的品牌探索出了不同的新路径,包括聚焦少数单品深耕、全渠道布局线上线下、打造情绪价值差异化、做细分圈层高复购等,这些新探索为美妆产业商业模式研究提供了典型样本。

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Quick Summary

This article maps out the major shifts reshaping China’s beauty industry after the end of the traffic growth dividend, with key takeaways below:

1. A defining milestone: Jizhixianzhi, once China’s top unbranded beauty player, outperformed Estée Lauder in social commerce GMV at its peak, opened 900 brick-and-mortar stores and hit 825 million yuan in annual revenue. Just four years later, its aggressive traffic-buying model collapsed, leaving its parent company with 660 million yuan in debt and forcing it into bankruptcy liquidation, with all its assets going unsold at auction. This collapse marks the official end of the era of unbranded beauty built on burning cash for user traffic.

2. Guidance for shoppers: As industry rules have fundamentally changed, shoppers should not blindly trust short-term viral hits promoted by heavy ad spending on live streaming. In an era where consumers prioritize reliability, brands with long-term reputation and substantial product R&D investment carry far lower risk of disappointment. At the same time, a number of new brands have risen by carving out differentiated new positioning, so shoppers can also keep an eye on new products tailored to niche use cases with unique brand identities.

This article analyzes the new landscape and consumer trends in China’s current beauty industry, with key takeaways for beauty brands below:

1. Industry and consumer trends: The overall Chinese beauty market has recorded its first-ever full-year negative growth. Amid shaky consumer confidence, shoppers increasingly gravitate toward established, reliable brands, leading to a resurgence of the brand effect. At the same time, consumers are generating new demand, opening up new growth spaces including products for emerging use cases, emotional value, and niche community-specific offerings.

2. Operational takeaways: Aggressive traffic buying no longer works as a competitive moat, and the粗放 unbranded model of rapid, low-quality expansion is obsolete. Brands must pivot quickly, complete the transition from pure product sales to brand building before the last of the traffic红利 fades, double down on product R&D, expand across omnichannel touchpoints, and reduce dependence on traffic algorithm-driven growth.

3. Competitive guidance: Leading foreign beauty giants have mastered China’s localized traffic playbook, and are using their high gross margins to support price cuts that allow them to compete directly in domestic Chinese beauty price bands. Mid-tier domestic brands should watch out for this dual-sided squeeze, and build differentiated competitive advantages early to protect their pricing power.

This article outlines the latest shifts in China’s beauty industry, with key insights for beauty sellers below:

1. Risk warning: The era of unbranded beauty built on cash-burning aggressive traffic buying and粗放 expansion is over. Short-video platforms have started splitting unbranded beauty into segmented categories for refined regulation, introducing strict penalties for non-compliant merchants, and will no longer tolerate unregulated growth. A pure traffic-buying model is very likely to fail, and sellers should avoid this high-risk path.

2. Growth opportunities: There are still multiple untapped growth opportunities in today’s beauty industry: building competitive advantage through differentiation based on unique aesthetic and emotional value; targeting under-served new demand in niche use cases such as cosmetic accessories, scalp care, and outdoor skincare repair; and building high emotional connection and repeat purchase rates by focusing on specific niche consumer groups.

3. Proven best practices: Successful brands have all completed their transitions early, shifting from pure traffic pursuit to deep investment in product development and brand building, while expanding to omnichannel offline distribution to reduce dependence on online traffic. This path is well worth learning from for beauty sellers.

Taking the upheaval in the beauty industry as a case study, this article outlines key insights for beauty product manufacturers, below:

1. Shifts in product design and manufacturing demand: The beauty market no longer prioritizes massive, short-cycle product launches. Consumers are tired of "ingredient competition" and increasingly favor products focused on deep refinement and alignment with new consumption scenarios. Products that deliver unique aesthetic and emotional value are far more competitive, and focusing on a small number of high-quality SKUs is a more sustainable business model than launching dozens of new products every quarter.

2. New business opportunities: A large number of former unbranded beauty players are transitioning from traffic-driven sales to full brand building and expanding offline distribution channels. As a result, their demand for OEM/ODM manufacturing has shifted from short-turnaround rapid new launches to long-term, stable partnerships for high-quality R&D and manufacturing. Factories with strong R&D capabilities that can support long-term stable collaboration will capture far more new business opportunities.

3. Guidance for DTC brand transformation: When factories transition to launching their own owned beauty brands, they cannot replicate the old model of pouring all investment into traffic buying. They must invest early in product R&D and brand mindshare building to survive industry volatility, as aggressive traffic buying can no longer serve as the foundation for a sustainable long-term business.

This article analyzes the latest changes in China’s beauty industry, with key insights for beauty industry service providers, below:

1. Industry development trends: The beauty industry’s traffic growth红利 has now faded, and the unbranded model built on scaling via paid traffic buying has collapsed. The industry has shifted from traffic-driven growth to growth driven by product quality, brand building and differentiated value, with overall market share increasingly concentrating among top players. At the same time, new growth spaces have emerged in niche use cases and community-focused brands.

2. New client pain points: All types of beauty brands today face common transition pain points: traditional traffic-dependent unbranded players urgently need to break their dependence on paid traffic and complete the shift from selling products to building brands; mid-tier domestic brands are caught in a double squeeze from leading foreign brands and urgently need to build differentiated competitive advantages. These pain points represent major new opportunities for service providers.

3. Required business pivots: Service providers can no longer profit purely from traffic placement services. Today, brands most need support in product positioning, identifying niche demand, building differentiated value, and planning omnichannel expansion. These high-value services will become the core growth driver for service providers going forward.

This article outlines the new demands the beauty industry places on e-commerce platforms, and key operational insights drawn from recent industry changes, below:

1. Lessons from industry shifts: In their early stages of growth, platforms prioritized GMV expansion and allowed unbranded beauty players to grow unchecked, leading to a flood of low-quality, short-lifespan unbranded products that harmed consumer experience and undermined long-term industry health. Regulating industry rules has become an inevitable priority for platforms.

2. Proven operational adjustments: Leading short-video e-commerce platforms have already started making adjustments, splitting unbranded beauty business into three independent segments (premium, general lifestyle, and daily essentials) for refined management. They have also introduced strict penalties for non-compliant merchants and are reforming the once unregulated unbranded segment, an approach that aligns with current industry development needs.

3. Future operational priorities: Going forward, platforms need to further strengthen merchant rules, push unbranded merchants to transition to formal brand building, and support differentiated emerging domestic brands and niche community-focused brands to meet diversified consumer demand, mitigate industry instability risks, and build an industry environment with healthy competition.

This article presents the latest developments and emerging issues in China’s beauty industry, with key insights for industry researchers, below:

1. Latest industry developments: After the end of the traffic growth红利, the beauty industry’s structure is being completely reshaped. The aggressive traffic-buying unbranded model has collapsed entirely, and the brand effect has reemerged. International beauty giants have retaken control of China’s beauty market, leveraging their strong brand equity and localized traffic operations. Domestic beauty brands are broadly undergoing a de-trafficification transition, and the industry is seeing clear market divergence.

2. New industry challenges: The overall Chinese beauty market has recorded its first-ever overall negative growth, intensifying存量 competition. The inherent weaknesses of unbranded beauty—short product lifecycles and low consumer trust—have been fully exposed. A large number of mid-tier domestic brands face a downsizing attack from international giants, with their market share continuously squeezed, and breaking this predicament has become a core new challenge for the industry to solve.

3. New business model exploration: A cohort of successfully transitioned brands have developed a range of new growth paths, including focusing on deep refinement of a small number of core SKUs, building omnichannel online-offline distribution, creating differentiation through emotional value, and building high repeat purchase rates by targeting niche consumer communities. These new explorations provide representative case studies for research on business model innovation in the beauty industry.

Disclaimer: The "Quick Summary" content is entirely generated by AI. Please exercise discretion when interpreting the information. For issues or corrections, please email run@ebrun.com .

I am a Brand Seller Factory Service Provider Marketplace Seller Researcher Read it again.

当付费流量不再是品牌护城河,美妆格局正在被重新改写。

|章航英

美妆行业擅长制造“速成”的故事,但当流量红利褪去,故事的幻灭往往也来得猝不及防。

一个品牌,从在内容电商渠道成交额超过雅诗兰黛,到欠债破产、资产无人问津,只需要短短4年。

6月29日,一则“限高令”的消息将“肌先知”母公司麦凯莱再次推向风口浪尖。企查查显示,麦凯莱以及其董事长李冠玮已有超过155条限制高消费令,李冠玮名下被执行总金额高达6.6亿元,公司涉及的司法案件多达1540余条。

巅峰期麦凯莱曾在电商平台开设店铺900多家,深圳南山区租下整整3层作为办公楼,员工接近4000人,如今人去楼空。目前,麦凯莱旗下核心品牌肌先知在内容电商平台已无官方旗舰店,相关产品散落在个人C店内。

2024年,肌先知正式进入破产清算程序,恰是白牌暴力投流模式崩塌的开始。而如今源源不断的诉讼和案件,只是长长的投影,映射出美妆行业的风云变幻。

值得注意的是,近期也有短视频电商平台开始将白牌业务拆分为精品、生活、日用三个独立板块精细运营,同时重罚违规商家,这意味着平台不再容忍白牌野蛮生长,而是用规则将其“收编”改造。

可见,靠烧钱投流、粗放扩张的白牌时代,正在落幕。当付费流量不再是品牌护城河,纯投流模式的溃败,已成定局。

暴力投流失效,白牌彻底分野

美妆行业迷人也危险的地方在于,总是给人一种“低门槛”的错觉。

2009年的深圳南山,麦凯莱还是一家典型的数码代工厂,在为苹果、微软加工配件的微利中,磨炼出对周转速度和极致成本的肌肉记忆。这一套思路,在2015年,跨界复用到美妆。在互联网流量思维影响下,无论是充电宝还是美妆,不同的产品,或许都只是流量的载体。

从代理花王、狮王起步,麦凯莱迅速摸清了行业水位。2019年天猫双12,自有品牌“肌先知”单品日销破500万元。巅峰期,肌先知还花重金邀请闫妮、李若彤、林志玲等明星代言,有了明星背书后继续投流放大声势持续霸榜。在美妆圈完成野蛮突围后,麦凯莱也吸引资本入场,2020年同创伟业在A轮豪掷近亿元。

麦凯莱迎上了白牌造神的疯狂时代。彼时,白牌大多选择代工模式,集中资源进行付费投流,将流量效率推向极致。内容电商的算法机制是其催化剂,平台也一度为了GMV增长扶持白牌。

2023年到2024年间,娇润泉、温博士、VC等白牌频繁霸榜,甚至将国际大牌甩在身后。

肌先知也曾在3个月内烧掉数亿元广告费后,将2022年GMV推高到8.25亿元,但仅一年后,就迅速从顶流坠入债务深渊。阿里资产平台上,麦凯莱资产起拍价合计600多万元——不足巅峰期年销额的十分之一,且大多数标的无人出价、流拍告终。

当时有媒体统计,这些白牌的生命周期极短,平均不足8个月。

但麦凯莱们的溃败,并不代表“白牌”这一物种的彻底消失。相反,走过了暴力投流崛起的启动期后,一些品牌也通过及时换挡,实现了扎根突围。

彩妆品牌蒂洛薇或许是一个值得参考的例子。同样成长于内容电商,靠投入短视频及合作数千万达人,多次登顶平台彩妆月榜,如今年销超过20亿元。

与众多白牌密集上新、极致低价不同的是,蒂洛薇4年时间里只上了5款产品,且产品主攻的是100-200元的中高价格带。今年3月,蒂洛薇重回头部平台彩妆榜首,并在618期间稳居美妆榜前20。

“聚焦单品比海量上新更持久,产品没做透都是无用功。”创始人张月曾公开表示。蒂洛薇逐渐摆脱对流量算法的依赖,逐渐在线下伸出触角。目前,蒂洛薇在线下布局屈臣氏、三福、丝芙兰等15000多家门店。

同样的叙事还有KAZOO可逐、三资堂、BABI等。去年12月,三资堂、BABI等品牌成功入驻丝芙兰,后者曾对入驻品牌有着“高端与独家”的苛刻要求。

流量可以作为起跑的助推器,但无法承载生意的底座。那些能够活下来的白牌,无一不是在红利期消退前,通过精耕研发和渠道,完成了从“卖货”到“造牌”的惊险跳跃。

品牌效应回归,外资大牌“降维打击”

白牌在分流和换挡,但榜单上的品牌,又换成了熟悉的面孔。

2026年618大促收官。星图数据显示,全网美容护肤品类销售额同比下滑1.62%,香水彩妆同比下跌4.9%,美妆大盘在618发展史上首次录得整体负增长。

大盘在收缩的微观一面是,白牌在退潮,大牌重新掌握权杖。

在整体下行的迷雾中,修丽可登顶天猫,前10名只冲进了一个珀莱雅,其他全是外资大牌。赫莲娜、雅诗兰黛、海蓝之谜则包揽了抖音美护前三。京东开门红美妆前10名榜单则全是大牌面孔。

过去,外资大牌常被诟病决策慢。但在这轮反攻中,大牌表现出极强的适应力。赫莲娜的新品可以提前9个月在内容电商平台预热,达人推广GMV占比近半,直播间的话术精密到分钟。有媒体报道,赫莲娜的达人推广占总GMV近一半,贾乃亮、与辉同行、广东夫妇等超头主播为其带货。

大牌反超背后,它们拿走了国货新锐发明的“剧本”,并叠加上了品牌势能。

品牌效应在某种程度上是消费者的“风险对冲机制”。

美妆产品具有负反馈属性。一旦未能留住用户,修复成本极高。在消费信心波动的2026年,消费者更需要确定性。相比于一个可能随时撤退的白牌,有着近百年历史的国际巨头更能赢得信任。

一个现象是,直播间大力投流的大牌,本身也还是在用套系组合和赠品的方式,吸引用户冲动下单。但竞争的残酷在于,品牌手里的筹码和家底,本就是不平等的。

头部国货通过多年努力,将单品价格带拉升至300-500元。然而,大牌通过大幅买赠,在保住标价的同时,实际成交均价已下探至国货品牌的腹地。

高端美妆普遍毛利率超80%,即便五折促销依旧具备盈利空间,持续分流原本属于国货腰部品牌的用户。大量腰部国货既无长期沉淀的用户心智缓冲,也缺少全球化供应链、上游原料研发深度,在双重挤压下销量持续下滑。

守住防线的国货品牌,在存量中突围

在大牌反攻的压力下,能够守住防线的国货品牌,无一不经历了“去流量化”的阵痛。

逸仙电商(完美日记母公司)是一个典型的样本。在经历过度依赖投流导致的巨额亏损后,逸仙电商开启了转型。

通过并购高端品牌EveLom、达尔肤(Dr.Wu),并持续加大研发投入,它成功从单一的“流量品牌”转型为多品牌驱动的集团。这种转型虽然缓慢且昂贵,但让其在2026年增长承压期依然拥有自主权。今年第二季度逸仙电商总营收同比增长超过10%,逆势增长,其中护肤业务成为增长核心。

与此同时,珀莱雅、韩束、毛戈平等国货依然在618守住了前排位置。行业赛道仍存增量,但规则已变。

当大牌们习得国货的剧本,方法论变得透明,与其在有限的存量市场厮杀,更重要的是守住防线,在需求的缝隙间寻找增量,对场景和情绪进行重新定义。

当所有品牌都在卷浓度、卷成分,消费者已经决策疲劳。今年618,如摇滚动物园、安野屋都有超200%的增长,这些品牌的逆势上扬是靠独特审美、仪式感建立差异化竞争力。从另一种角度来说,美妆行业正从“数学”向“美学”回归,下一个突破点或许在用户的心理多巴胺里。

2026年时尚圈开始流行“美妆包挂”,将五彩缤纷的唇膏、粉饼、指甲油等美妆产品配饰化,打通日常穿搭、社交展示场景,精准抓住年轻人精致实用的消费需求;与此同时,头皮护理、户外修复等细分场景的出现,背后也是品牌在同一批用户身上发现了尚未被命名的行为。

圈层品牌同样走出独特生存路线。Fan Beauty Diary冲入天猫美妆头部前20、跻身“亿元俱乐部”、花知晓也迎来双位数增长,它们在细分圈层的韧性展现了“全渠道铺货”叙事外的另一种生存路线,瞄准特定圈层实现极高的情感浓度与复购。

流量红利褪去的时代里,唯有守住定价权、能定义新场景的长期主义者,才能在泡沫碎裂后,重新闪光。

注:文/天下网商,文章来源:天下网商(公众号ID:txws_txws),本文为作者独立观点,不代表亿邦动力立场。

文章来源:天下网商

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FAQ回顾

美妆白牌暴力投流模式为什么会失效?

一方面流量红利褪去,短视频电商平台开始规范白牌运营、重罚违规商家,不再容忍野蛮生长;另一方面消费信心波动下,用户更信任有长期沉淀的大牌,纯投流模式无产品、研发、渠道沉淀,平均生命周期不足8个月,极易陷入债务危机。

美妆白牌要实现长期发展有哪些可行路径?

首先要摆脱对流量算法的依赖,精耕研发、聚焦单品而非海量上新,布局线下渠道完成从卖货到造牌的转型;也可以走差异化路线,靠独特审美、仪式感建立竞争力,或瞄准细分圈层提升用户情感浓度与复购率。

2026年美妆行业整体格局发生了哪些变化?

2026年美妆大盘首次出现618整体负增长,白牌退潮,外资大牌适配流量玩法叠加品牌势能重新掌握话语权,部分头部国货通过去流量化、发力研发、差异化场景或圈层定位实现存量突围。

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