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7.79亿!杭州百亿巨头吞下“少女风顶流” 冲击港股IPO

章航英 2026-06-30 07:08
章航英 2026/06/30 07:08

邦小白快读

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本文核心是报道美妆行业标志性并购事件,干货整理如下:

1. 事件核心信息:国货美妆头部企业珀莱雅,通过3.51亿元增持花知晓12.55%股权,累计持股达到51%成为第一大股东,年营收超17亿元的少女风彩妆品牌花知晓,成为珀莱雅旗下第二个超十亿子品牌,本次交易为珀莱雅冲击港股二次上市增加筹码。

2. 交易的底层逻辑:珀莱雅主品牌增长遇瓶颈,自身难以孵化出带有亚文化审美基因的彩妆品牌,花知晓刚好补齐其年轻圈层用户布局,同时花知晓缺出海、供应链等增长资源,双方需求高度契合。

3. 双方需要承担的风险:珀莱雅面临整合难度大、花知晓原有品牌调性被稀释的风险,花知晓如果出海增速不及预期,这笔交易的高估值溢价会成为集团财报的负担。

本次并购事件是国货美妆整合阶段的标志性事件,给品牌从业者带来多维度干货参考,具体如下:

1. 消费趋势层面:Z世代亚文化审美赛道具备确定成长空间,花知晓主打少女风精准击中15-25岁群体,2025年实现营收17.26亿元、净利率16.2%,验证了小众细分赛道的高盈利可能性。

2. 品牌战略层面:当前国货美妆已经进入头部集团化整合阶段,多品牌布局覆盖不同用户全生命周期,已经成为头部品牌的必然选择。珀莱雅对标欧莱雅多矩阵战略,采用先投资后增持的灵活打法,保留被投品牌创始团队和品牌话语权的经验,值得同行参考。

3. 风险提示:收购后品牌整合难度极大,此前欧莱雅收购美即、小护士后,两个品牌逐步边缘化,品牌调性被均质化稀释的风险需要提前防范。

本次并购透露出国货美妆赛道的最新变化,给各类美妆卖家带来的干货总结如下:

1. 行业整体变化:2025年国内美妆全渠道交易额突破1.1万亿元,国货品牌市场份额升至57.37%,但同年有2.69万个品牌退出市场,行业洗牌加剧,头部集中趋势十分明显,中小卖家需要找准差异化定位才能存活。

2. 市场机会:当前美妆行业投融资遇冷,资本越来越集中在上游技术端,拥有强市场认知、自我造血能力的差异化中端品牌十分稀缺,精准定位细分圈层的卖家更容易获得资本和头部集团的青睐。

3. 合作与风险:对于有差异化优势的新锐品牌来说,可以对接头部集团的战略投资,获得供应链、渠道、出海资源,突破自身增长瓶颈;但也要注意保留自身品牌独立性,避免品牌调性被稀释导致原有用户流失。

本次并购事件透露出美妆行业产品端的需求变化和行业机会,给美妆工厂的干货启示如下:

1. 产品生产设计需求:当前美妆消费分层愈发明显,除了面向成分党的标准化功能性护肤产品,还有大量Z世代用户追求亚文化审美驱动的颜值彩妆,花知晓把少女审美做成可复制的产品语言,验证了符合细分圈层审美的产品拥有稳定增长空间,工厂需要适配这类差异化的设计生产需求。

2. 商业机会:当前行业头部品牌已经开启集团化多品牌布局,对生产端的需求会持续增长,具备柔性生产能力、可以适配不同定位品牌小批量多样化生产需求的工厂,会获得更多稳定合作机会。

3. 转型启示:行业流量红利消退,只有紧贴终端消费审美变化调整生产方向,才能拿到更多订单,工厂可以借助头部集团的数字化能力优化生产效率,适配多品牌的生产需求。

本次并购事件反映了美妆行业的发展趋势和不同玩家的核心痛点,给美妆服务商的干货总结如下:

1. 行业发展趋势:当前国货美妆已经进入头部集团化整合阶段,行业集中度持续提升,头部玩家正在从单个爆品公司向多品牌集团公司转型,全行业投融资整体遇冷,品牌端融资仅占两成左右,资本逐步向头部品牌和上游技术端集中。

2. 客户核心痛点:头部美妆集团普遍存在主品牌增长红利消退、原有组织体系缺乏亚文化审美创新能力的痛点,需要通过收购补齐品牌矩阵;而有差异化优势的新锐品牌,虽然具备增长潜力,但缺供应链、渠道、出海资源,难以突破增长天花板。

3. 业务机会:服务商可以针对性开发新服务,比如为头部集团提供并购后的品牌整合咨询服务,帮助降低整合风险;为新锐品牌提供对接头部集团和资本的匹配服务,同时可以为出海品牌提供海外运营服务,解决新锐品牌出海资源不足的痛点。

本次美妆并购事件透露出品牌端对平台的需求和行业风向,给美妆平台商的干货总结如下:

1. 品牌端需求:当前拥有差异化定位的新锐品牌具备极高稀缺性,数据显示花知晓在天猫平台的搜索量已经超过国际大牌香奈儿,说明这类贴近年轻圈层的差异化品牌自带流量,平台引入这类品牌可以丰富自身品类矩阵,吸引更多年轻用户。

2. 运营优化方向:平台可以搭建对接通道,帮助有合作需求的头部集团和新锐品牌对接,既可以留住优质品牌,也能帮助新锐品牌获得资源支持,提升平台品牌池的整体质量。

3. 风险规避方向:当前行业洗牌加剧,每年有大量品牌退出市场,平台需要优化招商筛选机制,重点引入有自我造血能力、差异化定位的品牌,降低空铺率;同时要关注头部品牌并购整合带来的品牌变化,提前调整资源配置,规避整合失败带来的平台流量波动风险。

本次珀莱雅控股花知晓的并购事件,是国货美妆集团化整合阶段的标志性事件,呈现了产业发展的新动向与新问题,干货总结如下:

1. 产业新动向:当前国货美妆市场份额已经突破五成,升至57.37%,行业进入深度洗牌整合阶段,市场蛋糕扩大但玩家数量减少,头部品牌竞争已经从单品爆品竞争转向集团化多品牌矩阵竞争,头部企业纷纷从卖爆品向搭建抗风险生态系统转型,并购已经成为头部品牌扩大护城河的核心路径。

2. 创新商业模式总结:珀莱雅没有照搬欧莱雅一次性收购成熟大牌的模式,创新出“初期投资-逐步增持控股”的模式,保留被投品牌创始团队和品牌独立性,既降低了收购成本,也避免品牌灵魂被稀释,这种灵活务实的并购模式具备很高的研究价值。

3. 行业新问题:本次并购也暴露出新的产业问题,头部品牌主品牌增长红利消退,并购整合存在品牌调性稀释的长期风险,高溢价押注未来增长也存在不确定性,为产业研究提出了新的命题。

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Quick Summary

This article centers on a landmark M&A deal in the Chinese beauty industry, with key takeaways as follows:

1. Core deal details: Proya, a leading domestic Chinese beauty company, acquired an additional 12.55% stake in Flower Knows (Huaxiaozhi) for RMB 351 million. This brings Proya’s total holding to 51%, making it the largest shareholder of the少女风 (girlish-style) color cosmetics brand. With annual revenue exceeding RMB 1.7 billion, Flower Knows becomes Proya’s second billion-dollar sub-brand, and the deal strengthens Proya’s position ahead of its planned secondary listing in Hong Kong.

2. Underlying rationale: Proya’s flagship brand has hit a growth ceiling, and the company has struggled to incubate a new color cosmetics brand rooted in subculture aesthetics. Flower Knows fills this gap by helping Proya reach younger niche consumer groups, while Flower Knows lacks resources for global expansion and supply chain upgrading. The two sides have highly complementary needs.

3. Shared risks: Proya faces challenges including high integration difficulty and the risk of diluting Flower Knows’ original brand identity. If Flower Knows’ overseas expansion fails to meet growth expectations, the high valuation premium of this deal will become a drag on Proya’s consolidated financial statements.

This M&A is a landmark deal marking the consolidation phase of China’s domestic beauty industry, offering multi-dimensional insights for brand practitioners:

1. Consumer trend: The Z世代 subculture aesthetic track has clear growth potential. Flower Knows’ girlish positioning resonates strongly with consumers aged 15 to 25, and posted 2025 revenue of RMB 1.726 billion with a net margin of 16.2% — proving that niche, segmented tracks can deliver strong profitability.

2. Brand strategy: Chinese domestic beauty has now entered the phase of consolidation led by top players. Building a multi-brand portfolio to cover the full user lifecycle across different segments has become an inevitable strategy for leading brands. Following L’Oréal’s multi-brand matrix model, Proya adopted a flexible "invest first, add stake later" approach, retaining the acquired brand’s founding team and operational autonomy. This experience is valuable for industry peers to learn from.

3. Risk warning: Post-acquisition brand integration is extremely challenging. After L’Oréal acquired MG (Meiji) and Xiaohushi, both brands were gradually marginalized as their unique positioning was watered down. Brands need to proactively guard against the risk of homogenizing and diluting core brand identity.

This M&A signals the latest shifts in China’s domestic beauty track, with key takeaways for beauty sellers of all sizes:

1. Overall industry change: China’s total omnichannel beauty transaction volume exceeded RMB 1.1 trillion in 2025, and domestic brands’ market share rose to 57.37%. However, 26,900 beauty brands exited the market the same year, indicating intensifying industry consolidation and a clear trend of market concentration toward top players. Small and medium-sized sellers must find clear differentiated positioning to survive.

2. Market opportunity: Amid the current downturn in beauty industry investment and financing, capital is increasingly focused on upstream technology. Differentiated mid-tier brands with strong market recognition and independent profitability are extremely scarce. Sellers that accurately target niche consumer groups are far more likely to attract attention from capital and leading industry groups.

3. Partnership and risk: For emerging brands with clear competitive advantages, strategic partnerships with leading beauty groups can unlock access to supply chain, channel and global expansion resources to break through growth bottlenecks. However, emerging brands must prioritize retaining their brand independence to avoid user attrition caused by diluted brand identity.

This M&A reveals shifting product-side demand and new opportunities in the beauty industry, offering insights for beauty manufacturers:

1. Product design and manufacturing demand: Beauty consumption is increasingly stratified today. In addition to standardized functional skincare targeted at ingredient-focused consumers, a large cohort of Z世代 consumers now pursue aesthetic-driven color cosmetics rooted in subculture. Flower Knows has codified its girlish aesthetic into a replicable product language, proving that products aligned with niche group aesthetics have stable long-term growth room. Manufacturers need to adapt to meet these differentiated design and production requirements.

2. Business opportunity: Leading industry players are now rolling out group-style multi-brand portfolios, which will drive sustained growth in demand for manufacturing services. Factories with flexible production capabilities that can accommodate small-batch, diversified production for brands of different positioning will secure more stable long-term cooperation opportunities.

3. Transformation insight: As industry traffic fades, manufacturers must adjust their production direction in line with shifting end-consumer aesthetics to win more orders. Factories can leverage the digital capabilities of leading brand groups to optimize production efficiency and better meet the demand of multi-brand portfolios.

This M&A reflects broader beauty industry trends and core pain points of different industry players, with key takeaways for beauty service providers:

1. Industry trend: Chinese domestic beauty has entered a phase of group-style consolidation led by top players, with industry concentration continuing to rise. Leading players are transitioning from single-hit-product companies to multi-brand group enterprises. Overall industry investment and financing is cooling: brand-side financing accounts for only around 20% of total sector investment, and capital is gradually concentrating on leading brands and upstream technology.

2. Core customer pain points: Most leading beauty groups face slowing growth for their flagship brands, as their existing organizational structures lack the capacity to innovate around subculture aesthetics, so they need acquisitions to fill gaps in their brand portfolios. Meanwhile, differentiated emerging brands, despite their growth potential, lack supply chain, channel and global expansion resources to break through their growth ceilings.

3. Business opportunity: Service providers can develop targeted new service lines to match these needs: for example, offering post-merger brand integration consulting for leading groups to reduce integration risk; providing matching services to connect emerging brands with leading groups and capital; and offering offshore operation services for brands expanding overseas to solve the problem of insufficient global expansion resources for new brands.

This beauty M&A reveals shifting brand-side demand for platforms and new industry trends, with key takeaways for beauty marketplace operators:

1. Brand-side demand: Differentiated positioned emerging brands are extremely scarce today. Data shows that Flower Knows’ search volume on Tmall already outpaces that of luxury international brand Chanel, proving that these niche, youth-aligned brands generate organic traffic. Onboarding such brands allows platforms to enrich their category matrix and attract more young users.

2. Operation optimization: Platforms can build dedicated matching channels to connect interested leading groups and emerging brands. This helps platforms retain high-quality brands, support emerging brands with access to resources, and lift the overall quality of the platform’s brand pool.

3. Risk mitigation: As industry consolidation intensifies, large numbers of brands exit the market every year. Platforms need to optimize their merchant screening and onboarding mechanisms, prioritize onboarding brands with independent profitability and differentiated positioning to reduce the rate of vacant storefronts. They should also proactively track brand changes stemming from leading brand M&A integration, adjust resource allocations in advance, and mitigate the risk of platform traffic volatility caused by failed integrations.

Proya’s controlling acquisition of Flower Knows is a landmark event in the consolidation phase of China’s domestic beauty industry, revealing new trends and new questions for industry development:

1. New industry trends: Domestic Chinese brands now hold over 50% market share, rising to 57.37%, and the industry has entered a phase of deep consolidation and restructuring. The overall market is expanding but the number of active players is shrinking. Competition among top brands has shifted from competing on individual hit products to competing on group-style multi-brand matrices. Leading companies are transitioning from selling hit products to building risk-resistant ecosystem, and M&A has become a core path for leading brands to expand their competitive moats.

2. Innovative business model: Instead of copying L’Oréal’s model of outright acquisition of mature established brands, Proya innovated a "initial investment, gradual stake increase to gain control" model, which retains the acquired brand’s founding team and operational independence. This approach cuts acquisition costs and avoids diluting the acquired brand’s core identity, making this flexible, pragmatic M&A model highly valuable for research.

3. New industry questions: This acquisition also exposes new industry issues: the growth slowdown of leading brands’ core flagship lines, the long-term risk of brand identity dilution in M&A integration, and the uncertainty of betting on future growth with high valuation premiums. These create new research agendas for industrial research.

Disclaimer: The "Quick Summary" content is entirely generated by AI. Please exercise discretion when interpreting the information. For issues or corrections, please email run@ebrun.com .

I am a Brand Seller Factory Service Provider Marketplace Seller Researcher Read it again.

花知晓卖的是未来,珀莱雅买的是时间。

美妆行业在经历2025年市场洗牌与结构重塑后,在今年上半年迎来一桩极具标志意义的并购。5月21日,国内美妆“一哥”珀莱雅以3.51亿元收购花知晓12.55%股权,加上此前入股持有的38.45%,珀莱雅持股比例达到51%,正式坐上了花知晓第一大股东的位置。

至此,这个靠“少女心”起家、年营收已超17亿元的国货彩妆品牌,成为珀莱雅旗下第二个“超十亿级”的子品牌,为其冲击港股二次上市积累了更多筹码。

近两年,美妆行业投融资普遍遇冷。据《化妆品观察》报道,今年以来,国内美妆领域已发生近30起投融资事件,但品牌端获得的投融资仅为两成左右。资本越来越集中于上游产业端源头和技术创新。

在此背景下,花知晓这样具有强市场认知及自我造血能力的品牌具备稀缺性。此前在行业会议上,天猫相关负责人透露,花知晓在平台的搜索量甚至超过了国际大牌香奈儿。

收购消息一出,市场的反应不一。有人说,珀莱雅补齐了彩妆版图的品牌矩阵;也有人说,高溢价追投,这是买品牌,还是买焦虑?

两种声音背后,指向的是两个问题,这是一场值得的投资还是冒险的“联姻”?花知晓并入珀莱雅,双方各自得到了什么,又将失去什么?

“稳健学霸”和“花样少女”的牵手

猛地一看,珀莱雅与花知晓是两种截然不同的品牌风格。

珀莱雅的主品牌盘踞护肤赛道,用“早C晚A”打透了精华市场,目标用户是注重成分、追求科学护肤的都市女性,她们消费的客单价不低,要的是“花钱买确定性”的安全感。

它的商业故事里,“情怀”得靠后站,靠系统打磨出经得起数据验证的标准化产品是核心,成长路径是通过强大的中后台能力,为不同定位的品牌注入确定性的增长动力。

花知晓不是这个画风。

它由两位90后男生创立,带着资深Coser(动漫角色扮演者)的审美洞察,最开始对标的是动漫里走出来的少女审美:亮粉色腮红盘、镶着珠片的眼影,打开就像拆礼物。主打百元内,用“极繁主义”风格精准命中了15至25岁的“Z世代”。

市场已经验证了,小众的赛道也具有确定性成长空间和高利润回报。花知晓2020年销售额突破亿元,到2025年营收达到17.26亿元,净利润2.80亿元,净利率16.2%,这在竞争惨烈的国货彩妆赛道里,已经是极少数能盈利的玩家。

两个品牌的基因,是系统和尖刀的对垒,也是理性和感性的碰撞。表面上风格迥异,但从资本的视角看,或许高度契合。

自己内部难以孵化的稀缺资产,往往才值得花大价钱买。珀莱雅试过自己做年轻化。旗下的原色波塔(INSBAHA)瞄准新锐年轻彩妆,2025年营收增幅125.38%,营收体量为2.56亿元。

功能性护肤可以靠成分党口碑滚雪球,但颜值彩妆靠的是审美基因和亚文化共鸣,这或许是组织能力买不来、砸钱也堆不出的东西。花知晓把“少女心”做成了一种可复制的产品语言,这才是珀莱雅愿意支付溢价的真正原因。

况且,对已经跨过百亿营收关口的珀莱雅而言,它的标准化流程和组织结构可能会带来惯性,花知晓能为其注入“跳脱体系”的灵性、以及创新的更多可能性。

从生意层面,珀莱雅旗下已有主打专业妆效、针对都市白领的彩棠,以及走酷飒路线的原色波塔,而花知晓切入热爱浪漫美学的年轻圈层。二者气质的差异,反而构建了更完整的用户生命周期覆盖。

欧莱雅的“中国学徒”

珀莱雅在“买买买”这条路上早已不是新手。从2019年收购彩棠,到2025年参股、2026年控股花知晓,稳步推进。

珀莱雅这步棋,对标的是国际巨头的“高阶玩法”。比如欧莱雅拥有从顶奢(赫莲娜)、高端(兰蔻)、大众(巴黎欧莱雅)到药妆(理肤泉和修丽可)及香水的全矩阵品牌,覆盖几乎所有细分市场,背后则是从研发、专利、供应链到全渠道管控的完整链条支撑。

这种“用资金换时间、换专利、换渠道”的打法,是美妆集团建立护城河的最短路径。

珀莱雅可能是国货美妆里学欧莱雅战略最彻底的玩家。但深层来看,虽然在战略上“跟牌”欧莱雅,它在操盘策略上走出了自己的节奏。

与欧莱雅不同的是,它不追求一次性吞并成熟大牌,而是倾向于在品牌成长初期通过战略投资建立联系,再视发展情况增持至控股。这种打法既能以较低成本锁定优质资产,又为后续整合留出缓冲空间,体现出灵活与务实的风格。

珀莱雅在行业内的位置,决定了其并不是单纯的财务投资,而是能靠多年搭建的体系为品牌进行深度赋能。被收购品牌,比如彩棠的唐毅、花知晓的杨子枫,通常会保留创始团队和审美话语权。这样一来,既能防止品牌灵魂被稀释,也能降低被投企业的运营成本。

中国化妆品行业走向集团化整合,是这个周期的确定性判断。

2025年,全渠道美妆交易额破1.1万亿元,国货份额升至57.37%,但同年有2.69万个品牌退出市场——蛋糕在涨,但吃到蛋糕的人在减少。对活下来的头部而言,多品牌协同不再是选项,而是必须作答的生存题。

能否撑起百亿巨头的野心

这笔交易,两边都有真实需求,但也各自承担着不小的风险。

对珀莱雅来说,最贵的不是收购成本,而是整合成本。花知晓的生命力来自审美基因和团队对年轻文化敏感度,这极难标准化移植。

风险的另一面,花知晓的用户对其“独立品牌”的身份认同存在固有依恋。“珀莱雅系”的标签被贴上,可能会让少女心的滤镜少了些许最初的光芒。欧莱雅收购的美即、小护士是前车之鉴,美即被收购后,从面膜第一品牌逐步边缘化,小护士如今几乎退出市场。买进来的国货品牌,进了大集团反而一步步没落,品牌调性被均质化稀释殆尽。

对花知晓来说,加入珀莱雅充满诱惑:供应链整合、线下渠道、全球化资源。2025年,花知晓海外营收突破2亿元,出海的窗口已经打开,但资源瓶颈正在压制其增长的天花板。这时候背靠一个有百亿营收的上市平台,比单打独斗强多了。

但花知晓目前的估值建立在高速增长的预期上,高溢价收购意味着市场对它的出海潜力押了重注。但海外市场的不确定性远超国内,如果增速放缓,这笔溢价就会变成压在并表报表上的一块石头。

如果用一句话来概括这场交易,大概是:花知晓卖的是未来,珀莱雅买的是时间。

2025财年,珀莱雅以105.97亿元营收稳居国货美妆榜首,是唯一突破百亿的上市企业。这份“断层领先”,让它坐稳了国货美妆的头把交椅,同时喊出“2035年进入全球化妆品行业前十”的野心。

但一路高歌猛进后,珀莱雅基本盘已经显现了疲态。

2025年,公司总营收105.97亿元,同比下滑1.68%;净利润14.98亿元,同比下滑3.50%。这是上市以来首次营收利润双降,也是1988年出生的“二代"侯亚孟接班后的第一份成绩单。

拆开来看,主品牌珀莱雅营收76.89亿元,同比下降10.39%,核心单品增长遭遇挑战。反而是几个年轻子品牌表现生猛——洗护品牌Off&Relax增幅102.19%,头皮护理品牌惊时增幅441.66%,原色波塔增幅125.38%。

美妆市场热点瞬息万变。“早C晚A”的红利在消退,成分护肤的配方不是秘密,跟进者蜂拥而至,流量成本日益高涨,珀莱雅的护城河越来越难守。

短期来看,收购花知晓,从财务角度看是立竿见影的。并表之后,集团营收会有实质性的增量修复。

但不能忽略的事实是,花知晓能提供增量,但无法解决主品牌的增长压力。

从控股花知晓到冲刺港交所二次上市,珀莱雅最近的一系列动作指向同一个信号,它正在从一家“卖爆品的公司”向一家“建系统的集团公司”跃迁。

主品牌能否重回增长,当然重要;但对此刻的珀莱雅而言,更关键的命题是,能否在护肤、彩妆、洗护、甚至全球化的版图上,拼出一整套足以抵御市场波动风险的系统。相比于“快”,“稳”才是这个百亿美妆巨头重仓的方向。

注:文/章航英,文章来源:天下网商(公众号ID:txws_txws),本文为作者独立观点,不代表亿邦动力立场。

文章来源:天下网商

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