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铁打的抖音、流水的白牌 蒂洛薇会是例外吗?

胡芳洁 2026-06-09 14:21
胡芳洁 2026/06/09 14:21

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本文介绍了成立仅4年就拿下2025年抖音彩妆年销冠军的新品牌蒂洛薇,2025年其销售额达到20亿元左右,2026年一季度仍稳居抖音彩妆第一,其快速起量的经验和面临的发展困境都有参考价值。

1. 品牌起步核心:创始人曾是韩国彩妆品牌爱敬的中国全渠道代理商,主打100-200元价位高性价比养肤底妆,填补国货美妆中间价格带空白,聚焦打造4款核心超级单品,各单品分工清晰,覆盖不同需求。

2. 抖音起量实操方法:采用“超级单品+创始人IP+明星代言+达人矩阵&日不落自播”模式,一年合作近3000位达人,采取金字塔布局,同时开13个蓝V账号实现24小时不间断自播,付费流量占比达18.55%,高于行业平均,爆款内容遵循固定转化脚本,精准击中用户痛点。

3. 现存问题:产品用户评价两极分化,过度依赖大单品和抖音平台,研发生产多与代工厂合作,品牌化转型仍未真正成功,未来发展仍有不确定性。

蒂洛薇在抖音的成功突围,为美妆新品牌成长提供了可参考的样本,也暴露了抖音白牌美妆的普遍风险,对各类美妆品牌商有多方面启示。

1. 产品与定价策略:可切入国货美妆聚集区之外的价格空白带,主打100-200元高性价比养肤底妆,走超级大单品路线,集中资源打造少数核心产品,精准击中用户卡粉、脱妆、底妆偏干等普遍痛点做产品创新。

2. 品牌营销与渠道运营:在抖音可采用“超级单品+达人矩阵+日不落自播”组合模式,做达人金字塔布局,头部达人带量、腰尾部达人铺量种草,加大付费投流力度,内容端遵循标准化爆款脚本提升转化效率。

3. 长期发展提示:需警惕过度依赖单一平台和大单品、研发生产依赖外部合作带来的风险,尽早布局品牌化转型,通过签约代言人、拓展全渠道、加码研发沉淀品牌资产,提升抗风险能力。

蒂洛薇在抖音的增长路径,给抖音美妆类卖家提供了可复制的实操经验,也明确了行业现存的机会与风险,参考价值较高。

1. 可借鉴的实操方法:切入市场空白价格带,集中资源打造超级大单品,避免sku分散;流量端采用金字塔达人布局搭配多账号日不落自播,适度加大付费投放力度,内容端遵循“制造焦虑-颠覆认知-效果对比-信任背书-行动指令”的爆款脚本,精准抓用户痛点提升转化。

2. 当前可把握的市场机会:国内美妆赛道100-200元的养肤底妆价格带仍有增长空间,同时品牌化转型阶段拓展线下门店、布局东南亚出海都有新的增量机会,做好复购沉淀就能获得长期增长。

3. 需要警惕的风险:过度投流会推高运营成本摊薄利润,过度依赖抖音平台和单一爆品抗风险能力弱,产品研发品控过度依赖代工厂容易出现评价分化,需要尽早布局品牌化转型,摆脱纯流量增长模式。

蒂洛薇的发展模式,为美妆生产加工厂带来了新的商业机会,也指明了电商时代工厂的发展方向,有诸多启示。

1. 产品生产与设计需求:当前美妆新品牌普遍走超级大单品路线,聚焦高性价比养肤底妆赛道,对产品技术创新有较高需求,比如高精华含量配方、免激活的粉膏工艺、超细粉体专利技术等,要求工厂能匹配品牌的创新需求,提供符合用户痛点的工艺与原料方案。

2. 新的商业机会:越来越多美妆新品牌采用“品牌主导需求定义+工厂负责工艺实现”的联合研发模式,会和工厂联合申请专利,这种模式已经成为行业常态,能给有研发能力的代工厂带来大量稳定合作订单,头部研发型工厂还可以通过给品牌提供独家授权技术,深度绑定品牌获得长期合作。

3. 数字化电商发展启示:工厂需要紧跟电商平台的品牌发展节奏,提升研发响应速度,配合品牌的大单品策略快速落地产品,开放深度合作模式,才能获得更多新品牌的合作机会。

蒂洛薇的崛起与转型,反映了抖音美妆赛道的新发展趋势,也明确了品牌方的核心痛点,能给美妆相关服务商调整业务方向提供参考。

1. 行业发展新趋势:抖音美妆赛道仍然有新品牌突围的空间,新一代抖音白牌美妆已经告别早期低价赚快钱的模式,正在逐步向品牌化方向转型,越来越多品牌有拓展全渠道、出海的需求,对多元化服务的需求持续提升。

2. 品牌方的核心痛点:新品牌早期普遍缺乏独立研发能力,需要对接优质的研发资源;流量端需要优化内容和投流效率,提升转化;长期发展需要解决过度依赖流量、沉淀品牌资产的问题。

3. 可布局的解决方案:服务商可开展研发资源对接业务,链接品牌和优质代工厂、原料商;针对品牌流量需求,推出标准化爆款内容打造、投流优化服务;还可以针对品牌转型需求,提供品牌定位规划、全渠道布局、出海咨询等服务,满足品牌长期发展需求。

蒂洛薇等新一代抖音白牌美妆的发展,反映了当前平台美妆赛道的生态现状,也给平台商的运营管理、风险规避提供了诸多启示。

1. 品牌对平台的核心需求:抖音已经成为新美妆品牌起量的核心阵地,品牌需要平台提供成熟的流量投放工具,以及公平有序的竞争环境,帮助新品牌完成从起量到品牌化的转型。

2. 当前平台美妆赛道存在的问题:大量白牌美妆依托平台流量快速起量,但行业普遍存在大起大落的问题,过去多个爆火白牌因虚假宣传等违规问题快速消亡,多数品牌依赖投流增长,缺乏长期可持续性,这类问题会影响平台美妆赛道的整体口碑。

3. 平台运营与风险规避方向:平台可加大对合规经营、积极布局品牌化转型品牌的扶持力度,规范产品宣传与流量竞争,打击虚假宣传等违规行为;同时可以搭建多元服务体系,帮助品牌拓展全渠道,引导品牌健康成长,规避白牌大起大落给平台带来的风险,优化平台美妆生态。

蒂洛薇的崛起代表了抖音电商时代白牌美妆发展的新动向,也暴露了行业当前存在的新问题,为产业研究提供了典型样本。

1. 产业发展新动向:抖音已经成为美妆新品牌的核心起量阵地,新一代抖音白牌不再走低价赚快钱的老路,开始切入中间价格带,采用“超级大单品+极致流量运营”的模式起量,目前多个头部新白牌已经开启品牌化转型,尝试拓展线下渠道和出海,和过去快起快落的白牌有明显区别。

2. 产业面临的新问题:新品牌普遍采用和代工厂联合研发的模式,这种模式的长期风险还需要观察;行业普遍存在过度依赖平台流量、投流成本过高摊薄利润的问题,如何摆脱流量依赖实现长期增长,是全行业共同面临的问题,目前还没有成熟的可复制路径。

3. 新商业模式研究价值:“品牌主导用户需求定义+代工厂负责技术落地+抖音极致流量运营”的新品牌孵化模式,已经跑出了阶段性成果,成为美妆产业的新商业模式,其长期可持续性值得深入研究。

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Quick Summary

This article profiles Dilovi, a new Chinese beauty brand that claimed Douyin's top spot in color cosmetics sales just four years after its founding. The brand is on track to hit roughly 2 billion yuan ($278 million) in annual sales in 2025, and retained its first-place ranking on Douyin's color cosmetics category in Q1 2026. Both its rapid growth strategy and ongoing challenges offer valuable takeaways.

1. Core growth drivers: The founder previously served as the full-channel distributor for Korean color cosmetics brand Aegis in China. Dilovi focuses on high-performance skin-nourishing base makeup priced between 100–200 yuan, filling a long-unmet gap in the mid-price tier of domestic Chinese beauty. It concentrates resources on just four core hero products, each tailored to cover distinct customer needs with clear positioning.

2. Douyin growth tactics: The brand uses a "hero product + founder IP + celebrity endorsement + creator matrix + round-the-clock in-house livestreaming" playbook. It partners with nearly 3,000 creators annually in a pyramid structure, and runs 24/7 in-house livestreams across 13 verified brand accounts. Paid traffic accounts for 18.55% of its total traffic, above the industry average. All high-converting viral content follows a standardized script designed to directly target common user pain points.

3. Key challenges: Dilovi faces polarized user reviews, overreliance on its small set of hero products and the Douyin platform, and outsources most R&D and production to third-party contract manufacturers. It has not yet successfully completed its brand transformation, leaving its long-term growth trajectory uncertain.

Dilovi's breakout success on Douyin offers a actionable case study for new beauty brands, while also laying bare common risks for unbranded white-label beauty players on the platform, with key takeaways for all beauty brand owners.

1. Product and pricing strategy: Brands can target the under-served mid-price gap untapped by most domestic Chinese beauty players, focusing on high-quality skin-nourishing base makeup in the 100–200 yuan range. A hero product strategy that concentrates resources on a small number of core items, with product innovation built around common pain points like caking, fading, and dry base makeup, delivers strong results.

2. Brand marketing and channel operations: On Douyin, the "hero product + creator matrix + round-the-clock in-house livestreaming" combination works effectively. Brands should structure creators in a pyramid model: top-tier creators drive sales volume, while mid and long-tail creators build mass awareness and organic buzz. Increasing paid traffic investment and using standardized high-converting scripts for content also improves conversion efficiency.

3. Long-term growth guidance: Brands must mitigate risks from overreliance on a single platform and small set of hero products, as well as outsourced R&D and production. Brand transformation should be prioritized early, via signing celebrity spokespeople, expanding to full-channel distribution, and increasing in-house R&D to build long-term brand equity and improve resilience.

Dilovi's growth path on Douyin provides replicable actionable lessons for Douyin-based beauty sellers, while clarifying current industry opportunities and risks, making it highly valuable for reference.

1. Replicable tactical lessons: Target an under-served price gap, concentrate resources on building hero products to avoid SKU fragmentation. For traffic, combine a pyramid creator structure with multi-account round-the-clock in-house livestreaming, and moderately increase paid investment. For content, follow a proven viral script structure — create awareness of pain points, challenge existing assumptions, show before-after effect comparisons, add social proof, and close with a clear call to action — to precisely target user needs and lift conversion.

2. Current market opportunities: The 100–200 yuan skin-nourishing base makeup tier still has room for growth in China's beauty market. During the brand transformation phase, opening offline retail locations and expanding to Southeast Asian cross-border markets offer new incremental growth opportunities; strong repeat customer retention can deliver sustained long-term growth.

3. Risks to watch out for: Overinvestment in paid traffic drives up operating costs and erodes margins. Overreliance on Douyin and a single hit product leaves businesses vulnerable to market shifts. Outsourcing R&D and quality control to contract manufacturers often leads to inconsistent product quality and polarized user reviews. Brands should pursue transformation early to move beyond pure growth driven by paid traffic.

Dilovi's growth model unlocks new business opportunities for beauty contract manufacturers and clarifies the path forward for factories in the e-commerce era, with multiple key insights.

1. Product manufacturing and design demands: Today's new beauty brands overwhelmingly pursue a hero product strategy focused on the high-value skin-nourishing base makeup category, with strong demand for product and process innovation — such as high-extract formulations, no-activation powder cream processes, and ultra-fine powder patent technology. Factories need to align with brands' innovation needs and offer process and ingredient solutions that directly address user pain points.

2. New business opportunities: A growing number of new beauty brands use a co-development model where brands define product requirements and factories handle process development, including joint patent applications. This model has become industry standard, generating large volumes of steady orders for R&D-capable contract manufacturers. Top R&D-focused factories can even lock in long-term partnerships by providing exclusive licensed technology to brands.

3. Insights for digital e-commerce development: Factories need to keep pace with the growth timelines of e-commerce-native brands, speed up R&D response times, support rapid product launches for brands' hero product strategies, and open up to deep partnership models to win more cooperation opportunities with emerging brands.

Dilovi's rise and ongoing transformation reflects new trends in Douyin's beauty category and clarifies core pain points for brand clients, providing guidance for beauty-related service providers adjusting their business strategies.

1. New industry trends: There is still room for new brands to break out in Douyin's beauty category. The new generation of white-label beauty brands on Douyin has moved beyond the early era of low-price quick profits, and is gradually shifting toward full brand transformation. A growing number of brands are looking to expand into full-channel distribution and cross-border expansion, driving sustained increasing demand for diversified service support.

2. Core pain points for brands: Most new brands lack in-house R&D capacity in their early stages and need support connecting to high-quality R&D resources. On the traffic side, they need help optimizing content and paid traffic efficiency to lift conversion. For long-term growth, they need to address overreliance on paid traffic and build sustainable brand equity.

3. Solutions to develop: Service providers can build R&D matching businesses that connect brands with high-quality contract manufacturers and ingredient suppliers. For traffic needs, they can offer standardized viral content development and paid traffic optimization services. They can also offer brand positioning planning, full-channel expansion support, and cross-border entry consulting to meet the long-term growth needs of brands undergoing transformation.

The growth of new generation white-label beauty brands like Dilovi on Douyin reflects the current state of the platform's beauty ecosystem, and offers key insights for platform operators on management and risk mitigation.

1. Core brand demands from platforms: Douyin has become the core launchpad for new beauty brands to scale. Brands need platforms to provide mature traffic targeting and buying tools, as well as a fair, orderly competitive environment, to support their transition from early scaling to full brand transformation.

2. Current issues in platform beauty ecosystems: A large number of white-label beauty brands scale rapidly via platform traffic, but the industry suffers from a pattern of boom-and-bust. Multiple previously popular white-label brands collapsed quickly after being caught violating rules such as false advertising. Most brands rely on paid traffic for growth and lack long-term sustainability, which drags down the overall reputation of the platform's beauty category.

3. Directions for platform operation and risk mitigation: Platforms can increase support for compliant brands actively pursuing brand transformation, standardize product advertising and traffic competition, and crack down on violations including false advertising. They can also build out multi-faceted service systems to help brands expand across channels, guide healthy growth, mitigate the risk of boom-and-bust white-label cycles, and improve the overall platform beauty ecosystem.

Dilovi's rise represents a new direction for white-label beauty in the Douyin e-commerce era, while exposing new industry-wide challenges, providing a representative case study for industry research.

1. New industry development trends: Douyin has become the core scaling platform for new beauty brands. The new generation of Douyin white-label brands is no longer pursuing the old low-price quick profit model, and is instead targeting the mid-price gap, using a "hero product + aggressive traffic operations" model to scale. Today, many leading new white-label brands have started brand transformation, expanding into offline channels and cross-border markets, making them distinctly different from the fast-rise-fast-fall white-label brands of the past.

2. New challenges facing the industry: Most new brands use a co-development model with contract manufacturers, and the long-term risks of this model still require further study. The industry as a whole struggles with overreliance on platform traffic and high paid traffic costs that erode margins. Finding a path to break free from traffic dependency and achieve sustained long-term growth is a shared industry-wide challenge, with no mature replicable model available to date.

3. Research value of the new business model: The new brand incubation model of "brand leads user demand definition + contract manufacturer handles technical development + Douyin aggressive traffic operations" has delivered measurable early results as a new business model for the beauty industry. Its long-term sustainability merits in-depth further research.

Disclaimer: The "Quick Summary" content is entirely generated by AI. Please exercise discretion when interpreting the information. For issues or corrections, please email run@ebrun.com .

I am a Brand Seller Factory Service Provider Marketplace Seller Researcher Read it again.

白牌称霸抖音,早已不是一句口号。2025年,抖音彩妆冠军意外被一个新品牌摘取——蒂洛薇。2025年,这家成立仅4年的“彩妆黑马”,年销售额已经达到20亿元左右。

当很多人都以为这只是昙花一现,今年一季度,蒂洛薇依然站在抖音彩妆第一的位置上。

人们都爱看草根逆袭的励志故事,但“眼看他起朱楼、眼看他楼塌了”的故事,在抖音更为常见。

此前,不少曾经在抖音红极一时的白牌美妆,在极致的流量运营助推下,一时站上高位,但随着流量红利的消失,很快就“查无此人”。

这一次,蒂洛薇会是例外吗?

1

玩转流量,称霸抖音

蒂洛薇在抖音快速增长,此前早有迹象。

蒂洛薇2021年创立,到2024年全渠道销售额已突破10亿元,2024年登顶抖音彩妆双11榜单。进入2025年,蒂洛薇在4-7月以及9月、11月和12月共7个月中占据抖音彩妆榜榜首,年榜第一。

到了2026年,蒂洛薇在抖音彩妆3月榜单、一季度榜单依然排第一。

蒂洛薇创始人张月曾是韩国彩妆品牌爱敬的中国全渠道代理商。早年,爱敬AGE20s系列气垫粉底霜凭借“精华养肤+拉花膏体”、高浓度精华含量等特性,引发消费热潮,一度成为免税店抢购、海外代购的热门单品。

这一经历,为张月后来创立蒂洛薇埋下了伏笔。

在蒂洛薇发展的过程中,主要以“超级单品+创始人IP+明星代言+达人矩阵&日不落自播”的方式快速起量。

产品层面,蒂洛薇主打高性价比养肤底妆,定价策略避开了国货美妆聚集的低价格带,主攻100-200元价位,弥补了中间价格带的空白。

蒂洛薇产品规划极为聚焦,集中资源打造超级单品。2025年其主推4款核心单品——水晶气垫、水散粉、粉膏和素颜精华霜。

这四款产品分工明确。据张月向媒体透露,水晶气垫是GMV主力贡献者之一,水散粉是品牌认知的基石,粉膏是技术实力的代表,素颜精华霜则是蒂洛薇从“妆”向“养”延伸的探索抓手。

「创业最前线」观察发现,四大核心单品中的粉膏,明显带有爱敬气垫粉底霜的印记。蒂洛薇粉膏是一款膏状底妆产品,遮瑕、持妆,且添加了90%精华成分。

该产品和爱敬粉底霜一样是粉膏形态,同样强调高浓度精华添加。但蒂洛薇对粉膏进行了升级,将精华含量提升至90%,且使用前无需激活。

品牌定位、产品矩阵是基础,而在抖音平台的极致流量运营,是蒂洛薇能跑出来的核心因素。

庞大的达人矩阵和“日不落”的品牌自播间,是蒂洛薇撬动销量的主战场。蝉妈妈数据显示,2025年,蒂洛薇合作了近3000位达人,这意味着平均每天合作10个左右达人。

在达人布局上,蒂洛薇采取典型的金字塔打法,头部达人数量最少,但贡献了最多销售额。肩部、腰部铺量,大量小达人和尾部达人完成大面积种草。

个人风格夸张的抖音达人韩美娟,是蒂洛薇重点合作对象。2025年,韩美娟给蒂洛薇抖音平台贡献了超过13%的销售额。

在抖音平台,蒂洛薇关联的蓝V认证账号有13个左右,包括蒂洛薇官方旗舰店、蒂洛薇美妆官方旗舰店、蒂洛薇旗舰店等,实现一天24小时不间断直播。

5月28日,「创业最前线」随机查看了正在直播的几个蒂洛薇店铺发现,店铺直播时主推的产品也十分聚焦,正品链接基本没有超过4个,有几个直播间商品链接仅1个,集中资源促进核心单品成交。

不仅达人投放大手笔,蒂洛薇在自播引流上,也很舍得花钱。

蝉妈妈数据显示,2025年全年,蒂洛薇的平均付费流量占比为18.55%,明显高于美妆行业平均水平(约10-15%)。这意味着,蒂洛薇全年近五分之一的直播流量来自付费投放。

大促期间,其付费流量占比更是可以大幅飙升至42.14%(2025年5月),这也带动了品牌自播交易额飙升。2025年,蒂洛薇品牌自播占比47.7%,达人分销占比34.5%,合计占比超82%。

但增加投放,并不意味就可以躺赢。真正决定转化效率的,还要回到内容上。

「创业最前线」借助有米有数平台的AI策略分析,对蒂洛薇近6个月投放的浏览量排名前200的视频素材进行总结,发现其爆款内容遵循“制造焦虑-颠覆认知-效果对比-信任背书-行动指令”的脚本公式。

整体来看,蒂洛薇是通过精准切入卡粉、脱妆、遮瑕差等用户痛点进行阐述,有效实现了转化。

但大量的投放,对于新品牌而言,虽然能带来销量,运营成本却大大增加,摊薄了利润。

此外,一个残酷的现实是,称霸抖音的并不只有蒂洛薇。dpdp、三资堂、柏瑞美、babi等对手正步步紧逼,随时准备后来居上,将其取而代之。

除了高效的投放外,产品及创新力依然是品牌长久运营的关键所在。

2

聚焦痛点造爆品,研发生产依赖合作方

“我从来不看品牌在赛道里是否第一,只看我在做的类目里面,是否能长期稳居前三。”今年3月,蒂洛薇创始人张月在CiE美妆创新展接受媒体群访时表示。

聚焦大单品的理念,贯穿了蒂洛薇快速崛起的全过程,但其是如何打造这些大单品的?

以蒂洛薇大单品水散粉为例,其采取了WSP水粉体悬浮技术,在带来磨皮定妆效果的同时无粉感,并添加专研保湿肽,水相成分含量50%,实现轻盈透气补水。

而蒂洛薇粉膏,同样在产品成分、使用方法上进行了创新。

所谓粉膏,简单来讲就是浓缩型粉底液,遮瑕力更强、更持妆。目前市场上主流的粉膏产品为油膏型粉膏,如毛戈平粉膏。但这类粉膏,使用前需要用指腹温度揉润膏体进行激活,对化妆者的使用技术、手法要求也更高。

“蒂洛薇粉膏采用创新乳化型工艺,第一,不用预热激活,用粉扑直接在粉膏表面轻揉就可以乳化。其次,里面添加了90%的精华成分,敏感肌、干皮、中性肌肤都可以用。”今年5月CBE上海美博会上,蒂洛薇展台工作人员对「创业最前线」表示。

蒂洛薇水晶气垫同样也是如此,使用桃花羽粉体专利技术,以0.24微米超细粉质遮盖毛孔、贴肤持妆,并添加保湿肽成分实现养肤效果。

“蒂洛薇水晶气垫虽然只要百元出头,但是滋润度、贴合度,我觉得比很多大牌都要好。”消费者钱欣(化名)对「创业最前线」表示,她对蒂洛薇气垫很满意,但粉膏却没有让她再次惊艳。

“因为气垫很好用,所以后来又买了据说持妆效果更好的蒂洛薇粉膏,效果却不尽人意。”她说,粉膏用完以后,刚上脸很漂亮,但暗沉很快,和气垫完全不一样,而且不成膜,用手一按一个印子。

「创业最前线」在社交平台梳理用户评价发现,对这款粉膏的评价呈现两级分化态势,一些用户觉得比大牌更好用,但也有不少用户认为易暗沉、不持妆、浮粉、发灰等。

整体来看,蒂洛薇通过产品创新以及用户洞察,依靠为数不多的核心大单品,以及大面积的投放和达人合作,站到了榜单前列。但这也导致品牌过度依赖大单品和抖音渠道。当产品生命周期演变,一旦创新能力断档、平台流量规则变化,或将对品牌发展形成显著冲击。

那么,蒂洛薇的创新能力和技术壁垒又如何?

天眼查显示,蒂洛薇母公司上海信及豚鱼科技集团有限公司旗下有发明专利3项、外观专利17项。发明专利虽然数量不多,但均关联到核心单品(如水散粉、素颜精华霜、水晶气垫)。

但值得注意的是,这3项专利均不是由上海信及豚鱼公司独立申请,而是与外部代工厂或原料商联合申请。这意味着蒂洛薇主要依靠代工厂,来推进生产和联合研发创新。

上述3项专利,涉及两家代工厂,即上海贞贤化妆品有限公司、上海绵花棠生物科技有限公司,后者为上海蔻沣生物科技有限公司(以下简称“蔻沣生物”)旗下子公司。

「创业最前线」根据蒂洛薇天猫旗舰店产品信息查询发现,蒂洛薇大单品水晶气垫使用了独家专利桃花羽粉体。该项专利并不在上述3项专利之中,而是属于蔻沣生物(2020年12月提交申请)。

蒂洛薇在生产、研发上与蔻沣生物的深度合作,由此可见一斑。

值得注意的是,蔻沣生物及其关联公司同时也是欧莱雅、完美日记、花西子等诸多国内外美妆品牌的合作方。代工模式下,品控、研发并不完全掌握在自己手中,也给蒂洛薇后续发展带来了潜在风险。

“在美妆领域,品牌与顶尖ODM/OEM企业联合研发、共同申请专利是非常普遍且高效的模式。这并不代表品牌‘没有研发能力’,也不等于‘依赖代工厂’,恰恰相反,品牌的核心能力在于‘定义问题’和‘主导方向’,而不是自己建一个化学实验室。我们与其他企业一起研发,是蒂洛薇主导用户需求洞察、产品定义、配方方向,他们负责工艺实现蒂洛薇提出的部分原料和技术创新。联合申请专利,是我们对合作成果的法律确认,也是对双方贡献的尊重。实际上,蒂洛薇有自研研发团队,后续的研发中心建立也有在规划中。”张月说。

她进一步表示,“桃花羽粉体我们和合作ODM/OEM签署了‘独家授权协议’,以确保产品最终妆效的呈现结果,即在底妆品类中,该技术只供应蒂洛薇。更重要的是,一个产品的竞争力从来不是靠单一专利锁死的。即便别人拿到同样的粉体,没有我们的配方比例、色号调校、内容沟通能力,也很难复制。”

3

白牌来去匆匆,谁能永占潮头?

在国内竞争白热化的美妆赛道中,能够站上抖音排行榜前列,虽然是对品牌商业化能力的阶段性认证,但这只是被市场认知的开始,并不能代表品牌的成功。

曾经在抖音红极一时、很快就“查无此人”的白牌美妆,大有人在。

肌先知是最早被写进抖音“白牌消亡史”的名字之一。凭借极致的投流策略,2022年上半年,肌先知在抖音月销售额一度达到2亿元,然而这一繁荣景象仅持续了半年左右。

2022年9月,因肌先知母公司麦凯莱旗下100多家商家问题突出,涉及功效虚假宣传、不正当竞争等,累计收到客诉达1万余件,违规情节严重,多家抖音店铺货款被集体冻结。2024年4月,麦凯莱被深圳市中级人民法院裁定受理破产清算。

还有娇润泉、温博士、FV、迪仕艾普等,都曾短暂挤进抖音美妆榜单,随后便迅速沉寂。

蒂洛薇会是例外吗?

积极的一面是,2025年以来,包括蒂洛薇、三资堂在内的不少抖音白牌美妆,正在展示出不同以往的品牌化转型迹象,包括签约代言人沉淀品牌资产,加大研发投入在产品上构建竞争壁垒,以及逐渐摆脱对抖音的依赖进军线下渠道等。

“其实从2025年到现在,我们正在从‘卖爆款’转向‘建心智’布局。我们从创立起,就坚持用科技原料、护肤逻辑做底妆,坚持用户共创、产品迭代,坚持全渠道统一价、不做低价倾销,并且持续扩展线下,今年也会入驻一些中高端渠道和海外市场,所以我对于蒂洛薇现在的定位是:成长期的未来品牌。”张月对「创业最前线」表示。

张月认为,蒂洛薇要证明自己的长久性,靠的不是解释而是数据,例如水散粉复购率稳定在40%,且已从1.0迭代到3.0,让用户持续看到“这个品牌在变好”。

此外,蒂洛薇已入驻1.5万家线下门店,天猫、京东等品牌阵地在稳步增长,让用户不只是“在抖音刷到”。

出海也是蒂洛薇正在考虑的方向。

“印尼、越南、日韩这些地方我都去考察过了。越南首先它的消费人群非常的年轻化,非常爱美,当地女性肤色跟我们国人也非常接近。不管是色号也好,还有用户的喜爱度也好,很适合我们先去做海外市场的尝试。”张月认为。

品牌化转型固然值得肯定,但这依然需要时间和成绩来证明,它们都还没有真正“上岸”。蒂洛薇虽然发展势头强劲,目前也依然没有脱离流量模式的打法。

能否耐住寂寞沉淀品牌资产、舍弃短期利益加码研发、摆脱流量依赖在全渠道扎根,并将这些抉择转化为切实成果,将决定蒂洛薇品牌化转型的最终走向。真正的考验,才刚刚开始。

注:文/胡芳洁,文章来源:创业最前线(公众号ID:chuangyezuiqianxian),本文为作者独立观点,不代表亿邦动力立场。

文章来源:创业最前线

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