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当餐饮开始 “擦边” 消费者为何愿为 “越界感” 买单?

莓莓 2025/11/18 15:05
莓莓 2025/11/18 15:05

邦小白快读

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文章探讨餐饮行业在激烈竞争中转向“擦边”营销以吸引流量,核心是提供情绪价值而非传统功能价值。

1.行业困境:头部企业如奈雪的茶亏损9.19亿元、呷哺呱哺亏损4.01亿元,迫于生存压力寻求创新。

2.擦边营销模式:以“轻度越界”体验吸引年轻人,如海底捞夜宵在社交媒体浏览量超800万,实现零成本流量获取。

3.风险案例:曼谷“猛男海鲜餐厅”和猫头鹰餐厅关闭,因热度下滑、菜品平庸和政策约束如低俗争议罚款。

4.新趋势“表演饭”:如北京“宴外宴”沉浸式餐秀,强调文化与美食结合,提升体验感但需回归食物本质。

5.实操教训:情绪价值是加分项,但餐饮核心是菜品品质;成功案例表明表演应与食物融合,避免昙花一现。

文章分析了“擦边”营销作为品牌营销工具,强调品牌如何利用消费趋势和用户行为重塑渠道。

1.品牌营销策略:转向情绪竞争提供新奇、刺激体验,如海底捞夜宵主题店通过免费社交媒体传播提升品牌曝光。

2.消费趋势洞察:年轻消费者在高压生活中寻求情绪释放,“擦边”标签自带流量,适合抖音等平台传播引发用户互动。

3.产品研发启示:案例如杭州烧鸟酒馆失败后,新方向聚焦文化绑定,如早茶店融入民俗表演,增强品牌记忆点。

4.品牌风险规避:政策约束如云南猛男餐厅因低俗被罚10万元,提示品牌需平衡创新与合规避免形象损害。

5.价格与渠道创新:盈利模式重构如海底捞靠表演延长用餐时间带动酒水销售,实现增收不需高投入。

文章解读了餐饮业市场机会和政策风险,为卖家提供增长策略和事件应对指南。

1.政策解读与风险:各地擦边模式频遭约束,如杭州酒馆被叫停,云南案例被罚吊销许可,提示需遵循政策避免低俗争议。

2.增长市场机会:新风口“表演饭”如上海“叙宴”连锁化,下沉市场增长快,强调融合非遗文化或国风元素。

3.消费需求变化:消费者从单纯味觉转向体验需求,事件如猛男餐厅关闭警示需求消退需及时转型。

4.可学习商业模式:海底捞夜宵利用表演提升客单价;失败案例如Hooters因服务单一暴露问题,建议注重菜品创新。

5.风险提示与扶持:流量潮汐性难控,先行者遇挫提示卖家结合食材品质确保可持续合作方式。

文章揭示了产品设计和商业机会,启发工厂推进数字化和电商实践。

1.产品生产需求:餐饮创新转向“表演饭”模式,如可视化厨房强调食材新鲜和现做现吃工艺,推动产品设计强化文化元素。

2.数字化启示:社交媒体营销如小红书、抖音传播案例(海底捞浏览量950万),提示工厂可参与电商渠道提升曝光。

3.商业机会拓展:擦边模式虽风险高但需求旺,工厂可供应低成本衍生品如酒水小吃,在表演场景实现二次消费转化。

4.设计优化:从失败案例(Staneemeehoi关闭)看需产品力支撑,工厂应配合创新菜品如非遗融合保证竞争力。

5.电商推动:流量红利模式启发工厂通过数字化平台加入产业链,强化供应链效率实现增长。

文章聚焦行业趋势、痛点和解决方案,为服务商提供洞察指导实践。

1.行业发展趋势:从擦边营销到正向“表演饭”如沉浸式餐厅兴起,呈现下沉化和多元化;问题先行如政策约束限制过激服务。

2.客户痛点:餐饮业核心菜品常被忽视导致同质化;政策风险如低俗争议罚款,或流量衰退如猛男餐厅热度下滑。

3.新技术与解决:利用社交媒体算法(抖音推荐);方案如结合非遗文化(糖画制作)打造体验感提升信任。

4.新兴机会:数字化工具助传播免费流量;提示服务商需提供平衡方案:强化食材监控避免形式主义。

5.实践路径:参考案例如海底捞模式,建议服务方案聚焦互动设计(开放式厨房)确保内容合规持久。

文章探讨了平台需求和风险管理,为平台商提供招商和运营策略。

1.商业需求:餐饮品牌依赖平台如抖音、小红书获取流量(海底捞播放量超950万),需优化算法推荐反差感内容。

2.最新做法:平台助擦边模式传播但面临政策约束如低俗吊销;提示平台招商转向“表演饭”如国风主题餐厅案例。

3.平台运营管理:规避风向如政策风险,强化内容审核;机会如开心麻花主题餐厅合作提升用户粘性。

4.问题应对:猛男餐厅关闭警示平台需监控热度变化;方法如支持衍生消费模式实现客源稳定。

5.策略指南:融合文化与电商功能,推动品牌合规运营;失败教训表明平台应鼓励品质先行内容。

文章剖析产业新动向和问题,提供政策建议和商业模式启示。

1.产业新动向:擦边餐饮演化为文化绑定“表演饭”,如广州早茶店融合摔角表演,显示趋势多元化与下沉化。

2.新问题剖析:模式可持续性差,先行者关闭暴露菜品忽视同质化;政策约束如罚款和吊销突显社会观念冲突。

3.政策法规建议:从云南案例看需制定细则规避低俗;启示如鼓励非遗融合提升文化合规性。

4.商业模式启示:盈利重构如海底捞靠边际收入;失败如Hooters提示回归餐饮本质,食物是立身之本。

5.学术价值:数据如企业亏损额(奈雪的茶亏9.19亿);观点强调体验与经济平衡,为行业优化提供路径。

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Quick Summary

The article examines how the food and beverage industry, amid intense competition, is turning to "edgy" marketing to attract traffic, with the core focus shifting to providing emotional value rather than traditional functional value.

1. Industry Challenges: Leading companies like Nayuki Tea (loss of ¥919 million) and Xiabu Xiabu (loss of ¥401 million) are under survival pressure, forcing them to seek innovation.

2. Edgy Marketing Model: Using "mildly transgressive" experiences to attract young people, such as Haidilao's late-night offerings generating over 8 million views on social media, achieving zero-cost traffic acquisition.

3. Risk Cases: Closures of Bangkok's "Staneemeehoi" restaurant and Hooters due to declining popularity, mediocre food, and policy constraints like fines for vulgar content disputes.

4. New Trend - "Performance Dining": Examples like Beijing's "Yan Wai Yan" immersive dining shows emphasize combining culture with cuisine to enhance the experience, but stress the need to return to the essence of food.

5. Practical Lessons: Emotional value is a bonus, but the core of dining remains food quality; successful cases show performances should integrate with the food to avoid being short-lived.

The article analyzes "edgy" marketing as a branding tool, emphasizing how brands can leverage consumer trends and user behavior to reshape channels.

1. Brand Marketing Strategy: Shifting towards emotional competition by offering novel, stimulating experiences, such as Haidilao's themed late-night stores boosting brand exposure through free social media dissemination.

2. Consumer Trend Insights: Young consumers seek emotional release in high-pressure lives; the "edgy" label naturally attracts traffic, suitable for platforms like Douyin to spark user interaction.

3. Product Development Insights: Failures like a Hangzhou yakitori bar highlight the new direction of cultural integration, such as teahouses incorporating folk performances to enhance brand memorability.

4. Brand Risk Avoidance: Policy constraints, like a Yunnan restaurant fined ¥100,000 for vulgarity, remind brands to balance innovation with compliance to avoid reputational damage.

5. Price and Channel Innovation: Profit model restructuring, such as Haidilao using performances to extend dining times and boost beverage sales, achieves revenue growth without high investment.

The article deciphers market opportunities and policy risks in the food and beverage industry, offering sellers growth strategies and incident response guidance.

1. Policy Interpretation and Risks: Edgy models frequently face constraints, such as Hangzhou bars being shut down and Yunnan cases facing fines or license revocations, highlighting the need to follow policies and avoid vulgar disputes.

2. Growth Market Opportunities: Emerging trends like "performance dining," such as Shanghai's "Xu Yan" chain expanding rapidly in lower-tier markets, emphasize integrating intangible cultural heritage or Chinese-style elements.

3. Changing Consumer Demands: Consumers shift from mere taste to experiential needs; incidents like the closure of Staneemeehoi warn of demand fading, necessitating timely transformation.

4. Learnable Business Models: Haidilao's late-night model uses performances to increase per-customer spending; failures like Hooters, due to单一 service, suggest focusing on food innovation.

5. Risk Alerts and Support: Traffic volatility is hard to control; early setbacks remind sellers to combine food quality with sustainable partnership models.

The article reveals product design and commercial opportunities, inspiring factories to advance digitalization and e-commerce practices.

1. Product Production Needs: Dining innovation shifts to "performance dining" models, such as visible kitchens emphasizing fresh ingredients and made-to-order processes, driving product design to strengthen cultural elements.

2. Digital Insights: Social media marketing on platforms like Xiaohongshu and Douyin (e.g., Haidilao's 9.5 million views) suggests factories can engage in e-commerce channels to boost exposure.

3. Commercial Opportunity Expansion: While edgy models are high-risk, demand is strong; factories can supply low-cost derivatives like drinks and snacks for performance scenarios to drive secondary consumption.

4. Design Optimization: Failures like Staneemeehoi's closure underscore the need for product strength; factories should collaborate on innovative dishes, such as非遗 fusion, to ensure competitiveness.

5. E-commerce Push: Traffic红利 models inspire factories to join the industry chain via digital platforms, enhancing supply chain efficiency for growth.

The article focuses on industry trends, pain points, and solutions, offering service providers insights to guide practice.

1. Industry Development Trends: Evolution from edgy marketing to positive "performance dining," such as the rise of immersive restaurants, showing下沉化 and diversification; early issues like policy constraints limiting excessive services.

2. Client Pain Points: The core food quality is often overlooked, leading to homogenization; policy risks like fines for vulgar disputes, or traffic decline as seen with Staneemeehoi.

3. New Technologies and Solutions: Leveraging social media algorithms (e.g., Douyin recommendations); approaches like integrating非遗 culture (e.g., sugar painting) to create experiential trust.

4. Emerging Opportunities: Digital tools aid free traffic dissemination; service providers should offer balanced solutions, such as strengthening ingredient monitoring to avoid formalism.

5. Practice Pathways: Reference cases like Haidilao's model, suggesting service plans focus on interactive design (e.g., open kitchens) to ensure compliance and longevity.

The article explores platform needs and risk management, providing marketplace sellers with merchant recruitment and operational strategies.

1. Business Needs: Dining brands rely on platforms like Douyin and Xiaohongshu for traffic (e.g., Haidilao's over 9.5 million plays), requiring optimized algorithm recommendations for contrasting content.

2. Latest Practices: Platforms facilitate edgy model dissemination but face policy constraints like vulgarity-related license revocations; suggests shifting recruitment to "performance dining" such as Chinese-themed restaurants.

3. Platform Operations Management: Avoid risks like policy changes by strengthening content review; opportunities include partnerships with Happy Mahua themed restaurants to enhance user stickiness.

4. Issue Response: Closures like Staneemeehoi warn platforms to monitor popularity shifts; methods like supporting衍生 consumption models ensure stable customer sources.

5. Strategy Guide: Integrate culture with e-commerce functions to promote compliant brand operations; failure lessons indicate platforms should encourage quality-first content.

The article dissects new industry movements and issues, offering policy recommendations and business model insights.

1. Industry New Movements: Edgy dining evolves into culturally bound "performance dining," such as Guangzhou teahouses integrating wrestling performances, showing trend diversification and下沉化.

2. New Problem Analysis: Poor model sustainability, with early closures exposing neglect of food quality and homogenization; policy constraints like fines and revocations highlight social value conflicts.

3. Policy and Regulation Suggestions: From Yunnan cases, need for detailed rules to avoid vulgarity; insights include encouraging非遗 integration to enhance cultural compliance.

4. Business Model Insights: Profit restructuring, like Haidilao's marginal revenue gains; failures like Hooters emphasize returning to the essence of dining, where food is foundational.

5. Academic Value: Data such as corporate losses (Nayuki's ¥919 million loss); viewpoints stress balancing experience with economics, providing paths for industry optimization.

Disclaimer: The "Quick Summary" content is entirely generated by AI. Please exercise discretion when interpreting the information. For issues or corrections, please email run@ebrun.com .

I am a Brand Seller Factory Service Provider Marketplace Seller Researcher Read it again.

“擦边”表演正在席卷餐饮业

小孩子从幼儿园开始报名各种辅导班;

同事们一个比一个加班晚;

健身房里谁的肌肉大,谁的动作难度高......

这都是“内卷”这一概念的具体指向。

简单来说,就是“不卷会落后,但卷了也没多大好处” 。

但在这个短视频席卷全球、网红文化渗透生活,大事小事都能成为直播素材的当下,“被看见”的焦虑已然悄悄改写各行各业的生存规则。

为了在激烈的市场中站稳脚跟,不少行业都在主动贴合市场脉搏,在“创新”的名义下不断加码

——而这份“卷”的压力,在实体餐饮领域尤为突出,甚至催生出一场“擦边经济”的流量狂欢。

01

剑走偏锋的餐饮模式

餐饮行业的生存挑战目前来说很严峻。

2024年,多家头部企业陷入业绩困局:奈雪的茶净利润由盈转亏,亏损达9.19亿元;呷哺呷哺营收47.55亿元,亏损规模4.01亿元;味千(中国)净亏损0.2亿元,同比下滑超111%。

现在做传统餐饮,拼口味拼不过老字号,拼食材拼不过高端店,拼价格拼不过连锁品牌,不搞点不一样的,可能根本活不下去。

无数餐饮品牌在“口味、食材、性价比” 的红海中厮杀,而“擦边餐饮”的出现,像是打破了这种竞争格局。

相比传统餐饮动辄几十万的装修、研发投入,“擦边”带来的差异化几乎是“零成本”。

这种差异化的核心,是从“产品竞争”转向“情绪竞争”。

传统餐饮比拼的是“吃饱吃好”的功能性价值,而“擦边餐饮”提供的是“新奇、刺激、被关注”的情绪价值。

在高压力的生活环境下,年轻人需要一种方式来释放情绪,而“擦边餐饮”提供的“轻度越界”体验,恰好满足了这一需求。

更关键的是,“擦边”标签自带流量属性,这种内容天生适合社交媒体传播。性感、反差感的特质,让其更容易获得算法推荐,引发用户点赞、评论与转发。

就像小红书上,“海底捞夜宵”相关话题浏览量已突破800万,抖音播放量也超过950万,每一位消费者的打卡分享,都成了门店的免费广告,“消费者自发传播”的模式,让“擦边餐饮”在差异化之外,又收割了免费流量红利。

流量带来的商业价值,让这类模式迅速蔓延:西安特色火锅店里,猛男服务员赤膊系围裙服务;杭州国风烧鸟酒馆中,古风女舞者做出大尺度互动;香飘飘门店里,“男团服务生”以爱豆式营业与顾客合影……连海底捞也加快布局,上半年已在深圳、北京等多个城市落地近30家夜宵主题店。

盈利模式的重构更是打开了想象空间,传统餐饮盈利受限于翻台率与客单价,而擦边餐饮靠“氛围付费”实现突破

——以海底捞夜宵为例,表演延长了用餐时间,带动小吃、酒水消费增长;衍生消费更成为新增长点,这些边际成本极低的商品,往往能带来二次消费转化。

02

靠“擦边”可以长久吗?

当国内餐饮业仍在热议“擦边”模式的流量效应、纷纷试图复制其短期成功时,那些更早探索此类业态的“先行者”,却已接连传来遇挫的消息。

2025年8月起,曼谷华马夜市曾红极一时的“猛男海鲜餐厅”(Staneemeehoi)将永久关闭,7月31日为最后营业日。

该餐厅因180+肌肉男店员穿吊带、连衣裙妖娆送餐走红,吸引大量游客打卡,已营业9 年零4个月。

关闭原因是与市场租赁合同到期,店主计划搬迁新址,还将拓展海外市场,首站为马来西亚吉隆坡,泰国境内新店地址暂未确定。

近年餐厅热度下滑,新一代店员颜值身材不及以往,叠加泰国旅游热度骤降、华马夜市萧条,客流大减。网友纷纷惋惜,有人感叹未打卡就倒闭,也有人感慨网红店难续热度。

几乎在同一时期,开了42年的猫头鹰(Hooters)餐厅已申请破产,未来几个月可能实施相关程序。该餐厅以性感美女服务员为特色,曾推出 “着装最性感” 的猫头鹰航空,全球现仍有420多家门店,但如今经营势弱、客流减少。

两家风格迥异却内核相同的餐厅接连遇困,从表面看,是受疫情后游客减少影响,(也有网友推测Hooters破产原因,一方面是招聘大量 “多元化” 服务员引发争议,另一方面是其吸客方式过时:移动互联网时代擦边内容易获取,且美女可通过社交平台赚钱,无需再当服务员。)但深层原因在于“擦边”模式的先天缺陷。

——将营销焦点完全依附于视觉刺激,却割裂了餐饮行业的核心竞争力。当消费者的猎奇心理消退,被掩盖的菜品平庸、服务单一等问题便会集中爆发。不少去过Staneemeehoi与Hooters的游客在社交平台反馈菜品创新不足。

流量的潮汐性本就难以把握,而“擦边”营销更面临着政策与社会观念的双重约束。

杭州一家烧鸟酒馆因涉嫌过度营销被相关部门约谈并叫停;云南 “猛男餐厅” 因涉及 “低俗演绎”,不仅被处以10万余元罚款,其演出许可也被依法吊销......

除了政策风险,关于“擦边餐饮” 低俗、色情的争议也不断。有网友表示:“这些餐厅打着‘体验’的幌子,实际上是在传播低俗文化,污染社会风气。” 这种负面舆论会严重损害门店的品牌形象,影响消费者的消费意愿。

但不可否认的是,尽管“擦边餐饮” 存在诸多风险,但在体验经济时代,消费者越来越注重消费过程中的感受和体验,传统餐饮业必须重视“体验感” 的打造,才能在激烈的市场竞争中立足。

“擦边餐饮”的“成功”之处,在于它抓住了部分消费者的需求,打造了独特的体验感。

但同时,传统餐饮业也必须认识到,体验感只是 “加分项”,餐品品质才是 “立身之本”。如果一种模式脱离了优质餐品和服务的体验感,终究是空中楼阁。

03

情绪价值,与餐饮本质的平衡之道

在“擦边” 营销屡屡引发争议、品牌形象受损的当下,一股富含文化底蕴的“表演饭”风潮正席卷餐饮行业。

从北京 “宴外宴” 的《红楼遗梦》沉浸式餐秀、“宫宴”等国风主题餐厅,到上海“叙宴”的连锁化布局,再到商场里的开心麻花主题戏剧餐厅,甚至街头巷尾“鸡排哥”的网感叫卖,“表演饭” 已突破高端与场景局限,呈现多元化、下沉化趋势。

“正向表演” 的核心魅力,在于打破了美食仅作为 “果腹之物” 的传统认知,将其升华为承载文化与情感的 “文化载体”。

许多 “表演饭” 餐厅注重可视化制作过程,厨师在开放式厨房中现场操作,手工拉面的劲道、点心制作的精巧、食材烹饪的火候把控,都直观呈现在食客眼前。

这不仅让消费者清晰感受到食材的新鲜与风味的纯粹,更通过充满烟火气的劳作场景,传递出饮食文化中“现做现吃”的本真理念,沉浸式的体验比单纯的口味宣传更具感染力,也让品牌更易获得消费者的信任与认同。

文化与美食的深度绑定,更能构建品牌独特的记忆点,形成差异化竞争优势。

在广州,一些早茶店创新性地将传统民俗“摔角”与茶点服务相结合。食客在品尝经典早茶的同时,能欣赏到兼具观赏性与地域特色的武术表演,刚劲有力的招式与早茶的闲适氛围形成奇妙呼应,既展现了岭南文化的多元性,也让早茶体验不再局限于味觉,成为极具辨识度的品牌标签。

此外,还有餐厅将非遗技艺融入表演,如糖画制作、面人捏制等,让消费者在用餐过程中感受非遗文化的魅力,实现美食与文化的双重收获。

然而,热潮之下,部分“表演饭”餐厅逐渐偏离轨道,陷入“重形式轻本质”的误区。不少消费者吐槽,一些餐厅将大量精力投入到表演场景搭建、妆造道具采购上,却忽视了餐饮的核心——菜品本身。

或是逐渐沦为单纯的打卡噱头,消费者的新鲜感褪去后便难再复购,整个行业也陷入同质化竞争的困境。

因此,归根结底,餐饮的本质始终是食物,“表演”只是提升消费体验的加分项,而非替代核心的关键。

成功的“表演饭”,必然是菜品品质与沉浸体验的双向奔赴。

品牌既要在文化挖掘、场景营造、互动设计上巧思创新,结合地域文化、非遗技艺、经典IP等元素,打造差异化的记忆点,让表演真正为美食赋能;更要坚守餐饮行业的初心,严控食材品质,打磨烹饪技艺,让菜品本身具备足够的竞争力。

唯有将表演的趣味性与菜品的实用性完美融合,才能让“表演型餐饮” 摆脱“昙花一现”的命运,从短期潮流走向长久发展。

未来,随着行业不断成熟,那些既能满足消费者情绪需求,又能守住餐饮本质的品牌,必将在市场中站稳脚跟,推动“表演型餐饮”走向更健康、更可持续的发展之路。

注:文/莓莓,文章来源:消费纪,本文为作者独立观点,不代表亿邦动力立场。

文章来源:消费纪

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